so i have my truck back together after replacing the head gasket, injectors, head, lp piston pump, and various other things. im trying to start my truck and im not sure of the proper bleeding procedure. ive tried turning it over for a while with all of the injectors open until i had fuel shooting out, then i closed all and did one by one. still no start up. am i missing something? any help trouble shooting would be awesome, thanks people!

Seva

 

Once you have fuel squirting out the injectors, Close one off at a time. Some times two depending on the amount. But since you changed your lp. You may not have it primed up good enough. What fuel may be coming from the injectors might be the remnece of what was left in the pump.. I would start right at the fuel filter. Make sure it has fuel. crack the bleader on the block and pump it up by hand and make sure fuel is coming out the bleader. Then you know you at leat have a good supply going to the pump. Then have all the injectors loose. Finger tight then back off a half turn or so is what I usally do.. Start cranking. See fuel squrting out pretty good, close it off.. They usally will bark off when the 3d injector is closed off.. Good luck..

 

If you have fuel to the IP, I crack 3 injectors and crank until the fuel is squirting all over then close them off and open the other 3. Crank away until it runs like crap then then close off the open ones and your done.

 

Alright ill give that a shot, thanks! Second question, is there a seal or gasket in between the fuel filter housing and the head? It's leaking fuel there, and I imagine that won't help my situation. Did I put it on right? I put the exposed metal side of the housing facing down...thanks again for the quick replys.

 

There is a square cut o-ring between the fuel heater and the head. The heater is held on by the filter stud. A leak there will give you headaches if it isn't fixed.....IIRC I think you put it on the correct way.

 

sweet. chrysler of springfield is delivering one for me! maybe this will help the bleeding procedure. i cant wait to get this thing running! ive have been without my truck, or any vehicle for that matter, for 3 months. if all goes well today i will get to feel the difference from stock(mild fuel pump tweaks) to now i have coolertubez, super "b" turbo, 4" turbo back, piston lp, ddp stage 2, ps/ic, with all the bells and whistles like new rad, arp studs, new hoses, heater core, water pump,t stat, kdp killed...we shall see...thanks for all the help!

 

Starting to get scared...how long should it take to bleed the lines? I've got fuel out of all of them but it still won't fire! What should I check?

 

people will surely chime in here but i used the TINIEST whisp of starting fluid to get mine going.
I, like you, had opened up a lot of stuff and bled the injectors many times.
so open one part of the air intake system, and While It Is Cranking! put a tiny puff of starting fluid into the incoming air.
it should combust immediately, do this more than once and it will begin running on its own.
no rush though and if it is cranking for a while let it cool down for a minuite or two before starting again. and never spray constantly it will redline quicker than you might think.
the amount you are spraying should let you do this maybe 4 or 5 hundred times before the starting fluid runs out. like onw bottle should be enough to restart your truck for the rest of your life! just a little puff

common sense but do disconnect your grid heater if you have one otherwise it will combust the starting fluid (ether) and burn up all your area!!!
also just a friendly reminder that if you have made a bunch of mods be ready to shut it down with a sturdy wooden board not OSB but solid wood, just in case it wants to runaway.

hope it helps.
if it runs but wont restart you may be getting a supply of air in somewhere (leak)

 

Cracked block?! I thought everything was going well, new head and all the bells and whistles. Everything together nicely, when the engine finally fired it pressurized my coolant...

 

You managed to crack a 5.9 Cummins block ? Are you sure about this ? When I replaced my head gasket I was amazed at how overbuilt and heavy duty the blocks are on these...the cylinder walls still had cross hatching at 200K.

 

You probably have a big air dam/bubble in the block. That happened to me. Open the cap and let it sit for a while, hours? and try refilling it...Remember that if we are going to jump to conclusions, why not jump to the easy one first Mark

 

There is a pipe plug in the head by the 90* heater hose, you can back it out to bleed air from the system. These 1st gen cooling systems need bled.

 

I didn't know about the plug, , I think I let mine sit over night with the upper hose disconnected...Mark

 

When my gasket went it was the same time as the oil cooler. Took that whole thing out and the entire cooling system had been contaminated by oil. Scrubbed and washed out the whole thing with that big old hole where the oil cooler mounts open.

Took forever to stop seeing big old bubbles in the radiator after that, but eventually the air bled out.

 

yes i concur i would say open the bypass or maybe run the heater if you have an electric pump to aid in the water flow to the cabin. or just leave the cap off and run it a couple minutes at a time and then let it sit overnight to get the bubbles out.

until you find water in the oil or oil in the coolant i would not think cracked block.
what got it restarted??