I have had my 1st gen for about two months. When I got it the previous owner told me that it would only crank with the steering column in a certain spot. Well I figured out it would start in two different spots. It has been the same until tonight when I went to crank it it wouldn't turn over in the usual spots. Can't get it to turn over at all. What do y'all think?

 

That would sound like a broken wire or an ignition switch to me. If you need to drive it now, put the key in the run position and jump the starter and you'll be on the road again. And to be ultra cool you could put a push button start on it and hide somewhere, could be a good "anti theft" device?

 

First off, welcome, fill out your signature so the people know what you are driving. There is definitely someone here that will help, but just not me ...Mark

 

I am with 93flatbed on this.

It could also be a chunk broken out of the cheapie pot-metal key-switch thingie and it not engaging the "START" position anymore.

I would for sure put a push-button starter-button on it, PROTECTED by a preferably hidden toggle-switch, EVEN IF YOU FIX THE PROBLEM.



Welcome aboard.

 

Remove plastic on the column to start. On the bottom side of the column just behind the wheel a bit is a black connector with 7 or so wires going to it bout 2 inches wide.
Check the red wire for power at the connector. That should be the power to the ignition switch, if that's good then plug the connector back in and turn the key to start while check for power at the yellow wire, that should be power to the starter. (This is all from memory so it's definetly not gospel) And I would assume if you have no power at the yellow wire, you have a bad switch.
Oh, this info is based on my 93. Not sure what year you are messin with so it could vary a bit.
Hope this helps

 

Thanks for your replys. The truck is a 93 W350 4X4 SRW Regular cab. Sorry about not posting the info to begin with.

 

i had the same problems ,,but my steering collumn kept getting hot and some of the wires melted and broke i had to wire it back mmyself ,,wich im not great at but i put my ignition on a rocker switch and it was so easy,,,,but if you need to start your truck now ,look at your hot wire coming from your terminal to the starter there should be a small brown wire coming from the starter to a 2 wire connecter just disconnect it and use a small nail or whatever to put in the side where he brown wire comes in and with your ignition on touch it to the battery just untill it starts then plug it back up and go,,,,,

 

You can also crank it up by using a short U-shaped jumper-wire between the BROWN and PINK wire that are both in that same plug.

In fact, right there is where you can splice in a push-button.


The PINK wire is always HOT and the BROWN is the starter-solenoid wire.

There should be a metal-cased starter-relay mounted on the larboard fender, just ahead of the hood-hinge.

 

Thanks everyone for your timely replies. I took the steering column apart expecting to find a broken wire but all I found was the wires had been taped really tightly with electrical tape. I untaped them and a few of the wires were kinked badly. I straightened them out and it's been cranking fine in every position. Thanks again.

 

I'd guess that wire is broken right there. Fix it!

 

Like he said, if all you did was straighten out the kinks and it is now making contact, then, most likely, a wire is broken in that area and you just happened to get it into temporary contact.

Sooner or later, it will quit again.

 

Here is how I took the load off from the ignition switch.

I now use this switch to control all of the Start/ Stop functions of the engine.

This switch is commonly used to Start/ Stop machinery all over the world.



Here is how to install my system.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...h-t197607.html

This yellow wire at the base of the steering column is what controls the starter, I also designed an interlock to prevent you from restarting the engine once there is oil pressure.



Jim