idle screw
idle screw
IV been looking for the idler screw on my pump and can't quite find it and even been looking at pictures and still don't get were its at so if some one could direct me to it I'd appreciate it thanks guys
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From: A 5th dimension, beyond that which is known to man.
the idle screw is the threaded rod/screw that the throttle linage rests on when your truck is idling.
look at this picture, at about 1:00 position at the top there is a threaded rod.
look at this picture, at about 1:00 position at the top there is a threaded rod.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 1
From: A 5th dimension, beyond that which is known to man.
you need to turn it clockwise if youre looking towards the rear of the truck. its hard to do. you can either use a chisel or something to loosen the nut on the backside of the screw (because you cant get a wrench on it) or you can just grind on the screw, but just a little at a time so you dont take off too much.
Easiest to adjust it with the truck running. I used a chisel like said to loosen the lock nut. Flat head screw driver adjusts it. Make sure its the threaded rod your throttle is resting on at idle... the other one is the "high idle". It just limits how FAR the throttle can rotate. That picture shown only shows about 2 or 3 threads of the rod at the very top.
Take the screw out if you have the throttle arm off and put it in backwards. Now, you can adjust it from the front/engine off holding the arm back out of the way with your screwdriver.
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I will recommend putting some WD-40 or something on the threads the night before you start moving it! Makes it alot nicer with the screwdriver at the weird angle you have to hold it if the screw is moving freely.
The idle (low idle) adjust screw is the threaded stud closest to the engine. The on on the outside is the high idle one, usually "sealed" to prevent tampering as it is used to de-rate engines by limiting throttle travel.
Use a toothbrush-sized wire brush and some diesel fuel/WD-40/power blaster to try and clean off as much of the threads as you can. It is a pain to adjust, and could be made to be adjusted much easier, except that you hardly ever have to adjust it so most people just leave the horrible setup as-is.
A chisel can be used, but just go easy. You can thread two nuts on it and snug them into eachother, and then turn the rear (one in the back of the two for the direction you want the stud to move) - If you have a stubby screw driver, the rear (firewall side) of that adjustment screw has a slot on it, and will turn once you loosen the locknut. If you have one of those ratchet box-end wrenches that has a fine-enough ratchet teeth, you might be able to slip it in the really tight (especially if you have advanced the pumps timing) space between the pump and the head. The nuts are 10mm. Make sure the throttle linkage that rests against it at idle is resting against it, otherwise if it isnt and is instead hitting the side of the AFC housing tower then it all needs re-indexed to lower the idle (happens after tweaks raise fuel levels enough that you have the idle still too high with the idle screw all the way in.
Use a toothbrush-sized wire brush and some diesel fuel/WD-40/power blaster to try and clean off as much of the threads as you can. It is a pain to adjust, and could be made to be adjusted much easier, except that you hardly ever have to adjust it so most people just leave the horrible setup as-is.
A chisel can be used, but just go easy. You can thread two nuts on it and snug them into eachother, and then turn the rear (one in the back of the two for the direction you want the stud to move) - If you have a stubby screw driver, the rear (firewall side) of that adjustment screw has a slot on it, and will turn once you loosen the locknut. If you have one of those ratchet box-end wrenches that has a fine-enough ratchet teeth, you might be able to slip it in the really tight (especially if you have advanced the pumps timing) space between the pump and the head. The nuts are 10mm. Make sure the throttle linkage that rests against it at idle is resting against it, otherwise if it isnt and is instead hitting the side of the AFC housing tower then it all needs re-indexed to lower the idle (happens after tweaks raise fuel levels enough that you have the idle still too high with the idle screw all the way in.
my dodge ram 2002
My question is my dodge ram 2002 4.7 starts and then when i take my foot off the gas it dies. I was reading to clean the IAC and that didnt make a difference but when we did that we noticed that the throttle screw doesnt stick up enough to hold it open just enough to stay running how do I get that screw out it looks like a pin or somthing on the back side and there is only 2 or 3 threads showing any help? About 2 weeks ago i noticed my idel while i was sitting still in park or drive would jump up to 1 and 1/2 and go back down and now the last few days that stopped but now I cant keep the truck running please help
My question is my dodge ram 2002 4.7 starts and then when i take my foot off the gas it dies. I was reading to clean the IAC and that didnt make a difference but when we did that we noticed that the throttle screw doesnt stick up enough to hold it open just enough to stay running how do I get that screw out it looks like a pin or somthing on the back side and there is only 2 or 3 threads showing any help? About 2 weeks ago i noticed my idel while i was sitting still in park or drive would jump up to 1 and 1/2 and go back down and now the last few days that stopped but now I cant keep the truck running please help
Here is how I adjust my idle screw,
After I loosen the locknut using a small punch and a hammer, I take my o-ring pick with the 90* bend and from the front of the engine insert it into the safety wire hole drilled through the idle screw near the back end of the pump,
working along the length of the screw you can easily screw in and out the idle screw about a 1/2 of a turn at a time before you need to remove the pick and insert it through the hole again from the opposite side.
The point of the pick allows you to work the hole in the screw at an angle.
The idle screw is item #14 and #15 at the bottom of the picture.

This is what an O-ring pick looks like, these are invaluable when working on these pumps.

After you try this you will see how easy this is.
Jim
After I loosen the locknut using a small punch and a hammer, I take my o-ring pick with the 90* bend and from the front of the engine insert it into the safety wire hole drilled through the idle screw near the back end of the pump,
working along the length of the screw you can easily screw in and out the idle screw about a 1/2 of a turn at a time before you need to remove the pick and insert it through the hole again from the opposite side.
The point of the pick allows you to work the hole in the screw at an angle.
The idle screw is item #14 and #15 at the bottom of the picture.

This is what an O-ring pick looks like, these are invaluable when working on these pumps.

After you try this you will see how easy this is.
Jim
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It's a bit of a pain to get back there and make adjustments. Check the sticky for a few insights.



