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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
Well I found the ball bearing which I assume goes to the rooster comb. Will investigate further today.
Feel better after dropping the pan. Some sludge stuck to the magnet but the metal shavings are minimal, like not even 1/16th of a teaspoon. Not bad for 10 years of wear I'm thinking?
Bummer is the pics in the sticky are gone, a result of the discussion about photobucket I guess. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t265745.html Text still there but pictures sure do help me. Have a Haynes manual too.
I saved some fluid for Blackstone as suggested. Will inspect the flexplate too and see what all I'm up against.
KRB, you need to upgrade to one of these, since you have to remove the valve body to reinstall that shift detent ball bearing, anyway. This bullet style will never, ever fall out. Comes with a stiffer spring. After I put one of these in all the shift slop in the column is all gone. Nice, positive locks on the shift.
I just did a search on A518 bullet style shift detent, and when you see this pic it is an eBay link. That where I got mine from.
Now is also a good time to reseal the shift tower on the tranny also, since its easiest with the valve body out. It's the part on the drivers side, where the linkage clamps onto.
As far as flexplate upgrades, should you need one, I bought the PRW SFI rated plate, like the one JMartin put in. I did a search, and saw that they averaged anywhere from $150-$180. Found one on jet.com, for like $130. They had a special, that if you are a first time buyer from them you got a % off your first order. So I lucked out and got it for $110. Way, way better build design than factory, and thicker, also.
Just make sure you install new flexplate bolts, and that reinforcement clamp ring. Bought all those from Cummins
I would flush it.. maybe use some cheap ATF to clean up the sludge. ATF is a great cleaning liquid. If there is sludge I suspect the filter is plugged.
Got real noisy. The bearing apparently locked up and spun in the housing, wrecking it. It didn't damage the shaft at all.
I believe the OD unit can be removed and serviced when it's in the truck Full instructions are in the MSM, but I haven't read them lately. It takes special tools to safely disassemble and assemble the OD unit due to the strong spring in the assembly.
Here's what the bearing looked like. Metal debris contaminated the entire transmission and transmission cooling system. Cleaning that up was a major task.
This is not the bearing that takes the 800 pounds of force. It's a flat Torrington bearing. It is common for it to fail.
Yes the diesel versions have straight cut planetary gears that do whine a little but you can't really hear it over the engine so if yours is that loud you should probably pull the O/D unit and replace those bearings.
This is not the bearing that takes the 800 pounds of force. It's a flat Torrington bearing. It is common for it to fail.
Yes the diesel versions have straight cut planetary gears that do whine a little but you can't really hear it over the engine so if yours is that loud you should probably pull the O/D unit and replace those bearings.
I'm pretty sure this one takes the spring load in a thrust direction also.
I checked the flex plate but can't "see" much of it. All looks well?
I'll definately check out that shift detent, looks good!
Without the pictures I can't really see where it and the rooster comb is. I'll keep surfing utube though.
The filter was pretty clean and the sludge was minimal considering the years.
About ready to button things up and see what happens. Adjusted the bands, turned the line pressure a turn (not knowing what the PO had/hadn't done). I can come back and address the dentent/rooster comb later.
Need to move the daughter next week. Will see how the noise is affected and then consider the OD.
You will have to drop your valve body to get that shift detent ball, or bullet style, back in. I believe there are like 6 Allen bolts that hold the valve body in place.
Ah. So is it as simple as dropping it and bolting it back? The valve body I mean, nothing falls or pops out? I'm auto tranny ignorant other than changing fluid & filter and band adjustment.
Correct, AJ is exactly right. Its the flat needle roller (Torrington) that endures the 800 or so lbs of force that the spring is subjected to. Not the raced ball bearing shown in post # 21.
I like machined grooves in replacement steel planet carriers to accept Torrington bearings as well.
Originally Posted by Angry Johnny
This is not the bearing that takes the 800 pounds of force. It's a flat Torrington bearing. It is common for it to fail.
Yes the diesel versions have straight cut planetary gears that do whine a little but you can't really hear it over the engine so if yours is that loud you should probably pull the O/D unit and replace those bearings.
Ah. So is it as simple as dropping it and bolting it back? The valve body I mean, nothing falls or pops out? I'm auto tranny ignorant other than changing fluid & filter and band adjustment.
KRB, do you own a shop manual? It shows and describes step by step, how to remove the valve body and the park rod. No, no ball bearings and springs will come flying out, provided you only remove the bolts that attaches the valve body to the transmission, and not the bolts that keep the valve body halves in place. It was tricky for me to pull it out with the tranny removed and out from under the truck. I suspect it may be a contortionists act removing it from under the truck with the tranny in place, but the valve body can be removed with the tranny in place. I would jack up the truck at all four wheels for sure to give you height, and do wear your crappiest clothes, as it will be raining ATF fluid once that valve body comes loose.
It's a messy job, and you should try and address other maintenance type items while you have it out, like the shift tower seal I suggested earlier. If it doesn't leak now, it may after you put everything back.
The shop manual also describes how to change out that seal.
Well, got it all back together. Noise still there, I'll check the hubs next but it sure seems like it is coming from the tranny. Fell better though since I didn't find anything abnormal in the pan. I'll see what Blackstone tells me.
Truck performs well. Felt a little tighter and firm but no huge changes, but then again it wasn't underperforming before.
Delivered 6 loads of alfalfa, about 6,000lbs each. Running empty the trans ran at about 190*F (mid 90's outside). Pulling with OD off it stayed at 200* and then 220* on hills and spiked at 225*. So then I started down shifting manually and it never got above 200* again. So I need to figure out how to adjust so it downshifts earlier.
I'm looking at a deep pan that has been for sale for awhile. If I get that I'll add a drain and dive into the rooster comb detent and shift tower seal and maybe even valve body depending on funds. Bigragu - where did you get your tower seal? I need one for the M880 bad, Not even checked NAPA yet.
KRB- on the seals, I actually bought a kit of all the seals required for our tranny cause at the time of planning and the unknown, I thought I would need to address the pump seal and other seals. So that shift tower seal is in there. You can get it thru Amazon, I believe it comes from Transpartswarehouse or something like that.
I bought my seal kit from puredieselpower, and it came from ATS. One day when I rebuild my tranny, all the rest of those seals will come into play.
If AngryJohnny would pipe in, there's a couple of upgrades you can do to that valve body while you have it out. He is the man when it comes to these things. The upgrade of switching out the manual valve, Sonnax part number 22771-09, and the lube pressure regulator, Sonnax part number 2271A-02K. These address the problem of the torque converter draining out while the truck sits, and at first start up when you immediately put it in gear and it does nothing till the converter fills back up. Not necessarily a big deal, but if that bugs you, you can pop these babies in to get rid of that.
when you pulled your tranny out, did you actually remove the flexplate and check it out? No scrape marks on the backside of the plate or at the transmission adapter?
This was the source of my noise, due to a buster crankshaft thrust bearing. It cause the flexplate to be pulled towards the engine, scraping up the back of the flexplate and this pic of the engine adapter. Noise was a metallic whine, coming from the front of the tranny.
Pic of the backside of the flexplate. If I would not have pulled it off I would never had known it was doing this damage, as the flexplate was not cracked at all
07-15-2017, 10:05 PM
