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I need a dump valve!

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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 11:11 PM
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I need a dump valve!

Argggh. I believe I need a dump valve. I replaced my MC, but the brake pedal behaves the same as before....I did notice a swishing sound from the valve while bleeding the brakes sooooo i think this valve is constantly bypassing, giving me a lousy pedal. I need a source for a new, rebuilt, or properly working one. Thanks! Mike
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 11:12 PM
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Advance Auto Parts can get you one (reman).

Try bleeding it by cracking the lines, then bleeding the rear brakes before you condemn it.
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 11:23 PM
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So by cracking the lines, you mean to bleed them by breaking loose the fittings into the valve, then letting them bleed by gravity and avoiding the bleed nipple on it? I would then snug them up and go right to bleeding the rear wheels? Sorry to follow with more questions, but im getting a bit frustrated. Thanks!
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 11:25 PM
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I've also seen them on ebay. I just replaced my rear brakes today and will be bleeding them in the AM. I hope that a good bleed solves my mushy pedal too.
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 11:26 PM
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Yeah, exactly that. Bleed everything very thoroughly, and if that doesn't cure it replace the valve.

You did bench bleed the master, right? Stupid question, I know, but a lot of guys don't do that and it causes all sorts of grief.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 02:15 AM
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I did bench bleed, but I replaced a kinked line... there was a lot of air in the system after that.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 07:12 AM
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What about just eliminating the valve? Do you actually need it?
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 07:29 AM
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Yes, if you want the RWAL system to work. I know there are a lot of guys who think RWAL is useless, but if you have effective rear brakes it can really save your bacon when you're running empty on wet roads. I encourage guys who are having trouble with the RWAL to put at least some effort into fixing it rather than just ripping it out.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 11:04 AM
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So you don't even use the bleeder valve that is on the dump valve at all?
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 10:02 PM
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UPDATE......Well, I bled the system again...I even gave it a shot with a hand pump (a waste of $30 I might say). I could not crack my lines b/c the line wrenches I have suck, so I just used the valves. I got fresh bubble free fluid for three pumps on each, but I have the same crappy pedal. I think I might try another MC, seeing it is under warrantee, ie: free... CAREFULLY bleed it and give that a shot. If that doesn't do the trick, Im gonna replace the modulating valve... If that doesn't work, im getting some gas and a match! Has any one heard a "swooshing" sound from that valve before? Is it normal or bad???
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 11:50 PM
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my service manual has instructions for getting the RWAL computer to spit out a trouble code.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 11:45 AM
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Did you bleed the RWAL valve before bleeding the rear brakes? If not, you need to. You should not have any swooshing noise in the system if all the air is out.

One more thing- how tight are your rear brakes adjusted? If they are loose, it will give a mushy pedal. Are you getting NEW or reman mastercylinders? I have had horrible luck with remans, and even NEW that werent Bendix. Only problem is, I can get Bendix stuff- they look up starter parts for some reason.

Daniel
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 05:43 PM
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The RWAL has been bled first, followed by the rears. Ive done it a total of three times and still get the squishy noise. I adjusted the brakes (too far initially) and now the pedal feels great when I pump it (MC red flag to me), but I cant help but question the RWAL. Im gonna hit it up with another reman since its under warrantee and go from there.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 08:07 PM
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I bled mine today, and got nowhere. I bled the dump valve first, then the rt rear, then the lt rear.. and went through that procedure at least 5 times. I still have spongy brakes, anti-lock and brake warning lights still on, and I also have the swooshing noise that sounds like it is down near the pedal. I am going to try bleeding it again in the AM, after I drove it a few miles this afternoon. Next I guess I will have to get in there and try the computer code thing. What does the reman dump valve cost?

I also couldn't get one of the lines to loosen from the valve, due to poor wrench fit.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 08:43 PM
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We should make a club for squishy brakes! A valve is running about 100 for a reman, and 120 new. Im trying to hold out until Im certain its bad, thats why Im trying another MC.
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