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I keep breaking my steering box mount

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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 06:23 PM
  #1  
Ilikebikes's Avatar
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From: Crockett, CA
I keep breaking my steering box mount

Had a problem with my original one getting the bolt holes ovaled out. Not the ones that hold the mount to the frame, but the smaller ones that hold the power steering box onto the mount itself. I would hear a clunk in the steering and it was the box shifting on the mount. So, I replaced it, only $23 or so from Dodge.

Fast forward to 800-1000 miles later. Same problem with the new box. Is there anything out there that is stronger? A better design? I'm tempted to weld the box to the mount. My truck only has 33" AT tires on it, so I'm not stressing it too badly. No wheeling, strictly on the street.
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 07:14 PM
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Dean Snow's Avatar
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From: Haysville PA 16041
Did you torque the bolts down to the right specs? That sounds awkward.
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 08:47 PM
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From: Priest River, ID
FWIW - One thing I always make a point to do is to not turn the steering wheel unless the truck is rolling. It reduces the stress that heavy Cummins puts on the steering components, espcially with large tires.
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 10:22 PM
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I tightened them down tight. Didn't use a torque wrench, but it was VERY snug. I know that the large bolts that bolts the mount to the frame are supposed to be real tight, like 100+ lbs tight and I haven't had a problem with those.

I too try and not turn unless I'm moving. Can't help it sometimes. No matter what, this piece should have lasted longer than it did.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 02:32 AM
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Any other ideas? Maybe I'll toss one more mount on there and if that breaks then I'll weld it.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 03:47 AM
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From: Yuma, Az
what would happen if 2 plates were combined and welded together? Is it even possible?
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 12:47 AM
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From: Crockett, CA
Throw the steering geometry off. It would space the box oddly in one direction. Probably make the truck steer more in one direction and less in the other.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 01:50 AM
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From: Yuma, Az
but one would be able to counter that by getting an adjustable drag link right? I'm just wondering if it would make any difference as far as strength is concerned.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 06:09 PM
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From: Hopland CA
This is a lot of work, but you could weld in sleeves which would pass through both the frame and the bracket, then run new [longer] bolts through the sleeves. I use this technique on rock crawlers with good results. If only I had a scanner, I'd sketch something up.

I would not try to weld the cast steering box to the steel bracket! The weld, or the cast around it, will almost certainly fail.

Last edited by bubbam; Feb 19, 2008 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Additional thought
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 09:06 PM
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From: Nevada Co., CA
You gotta stop jumping your truck!
Try tightening those bolts - plate to steering box - with a big breaker bar. I've never had the problem even on a couple plow trucks with all 4 chained up slamming berms of Sierra Cement.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 11:57 PM
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From: Crockett, CA
Yeah, I know what you're talking about with the frame sleeves. I've also used it on toyotas when going to crossover steering. Plate it and sleeve it! Looks like a nice first gen toyota in your avatar, too. I have one I got for free but am waiting for funds to build it. This old, piece of junk dodge isn't helping that, either. A second/third gen is looking better and better...

I'd hate to weld it. If I were having this same problem but with the plate to frame bolts, it'd probably be welded already.

bigredbrick - I wish this did happen from jumping my truck. Atleast that'd be an excuse for it to fail! Kinda sad when this happens from driving on the street, only.

Do you know how tight you tightened your steering box to plate bolts? I'm scared to strip the threads on the tabs of the box if I go too high.

I'm gonna stop by dodge tomorrow and order another one. Thanks for the input, guys!
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