First off i got my fuel pressure gauge in and its about 20psi post filter at idle... whatever thats not related but anyway....

it was still running like crap. i couldnt get any boost, only like 25, and its making me mad so i looked under the hood. my valves sound loud so i was going to adjust them. last time i used the alternator but now it wont turn the crank clockwise (looking from the front). whats up with that? i did it last time. im not spening 50 dollars for a barring tool. how can i spin the engine? i cant get to the crank pulley.

second, i was going to quit with that since i was so mad then i looked and seen that my brake lights are stuck on... i had to pull the fuse to get them to go out. what the hell is going on here? i dont even remember which fuse but it was a 30 amp one. im too mad to go out and look. the light on the tralier brakes was stuck on with it too if that helps. i tried pushing the switch in from under the dash but the light stayed on.

all in all i had a crappy day. too much fuel pressure, not enough power, valves arent adjusted and my brake lights wont go off. im about ready to sell this turd.

 

I've been in your shoes with both.

Regardless of what you think , a long handled ratchet and I believe a 5/8 socket will get you to the crank pulley bolt, you'll have to fight with the fan to get it to turn over but i've done it this way several times when trying to find TDC, it's always worked.

The brake issue is probably the stupid little brake switch under the dash, right in front of the brake pedal arm up under the dash, can't miss it....

The bracket will sometimes bend backwards causing the switch to not make contact with the pedal arm (which is how it works)...bent the bracket back forward and figure out why your brake pedal is coming so far up.

Or....if the "splines" on the brake switch have worn smooth and now it is sliding back and forth in the little bracket clip....get a small hose clamp and put it on the black part that sticks out with the "splines" on it. This will stop it from pushing back out of the bracket again.

Just look under there real good and you'll see it.

 

ok ill try that with the crank sometime.....


i tried to push in the switch by hand. it didnt change anything. thats why im frustrated. i dont know where to start after that. it just happened today though because my battery wasnt dead before i messed with my fuel pressure gauge.

 

you pushed in the little white button by hand and still didn't turn off ?

Switch could be bad then. $28 new from Advance....

 

I'm kind of in the same boat, had to take RAE off the road due to having to get towed home, ****** me off!! But now I have to rebuild the VE pump, install piston lift pump, do my KDP, rebuild upper control arms and tie rods, blah, blah, blah. I would prefer to be driving, but I know it will get done and I'll be happy once it's all sorted out. So stick with it, there is a solution to all your problems, you have to expect these kind of problems with a truck that's close to 20 years old.

 

15mm to get on the damper bolts, that's how I do it. The alt. only seems to work if you turn the motor over backwards, unless you have someone to hold extra tension on it. The baring tool is OK, but is painfully slow for doing the valves.

As far as the getting mad at it, it happens to all of us, or atleast me anyways. Give it some time and you will figure it out.

 

ok thanks guys.....


do you know if theres a thread on how to swap the switch? i was about ready to rip it out because i couldnt see that well in there.

 

Do your brake lights stay on with the trailer unplugged? My 01 PSD did that and it was a problem in the trailer plug connector, don't know exactly what caused it but trailer plugged in = lights on, trailer unplugged = lights off so I rewired the plug on the truck and trailer and that fixed it.

 

No I took off the trailer plug because of poor wiring so it's not a problem but the controler box is still in the cab and wired up.

 

Just a thought......

Take the truck out of gear before you try to bar it over......

Trust me on this one. It works way better when the getrag ain't in gear.....

 

...or your NV4500....

 

Well i cant remember if i took it out of gear or not but i did roll it over by the key once so its hard to remember. Ill try again tomorrow.

Thanks, That was good advice. Its funny because i was just reading about that too.

 

i figured id comment on this again.

i used a 15mm socket on my 3/8 swivel head wrachet. worked well, but my arm has rub burns on it from rubbing on the radiator house and my nipple is scratched from leaning on the hose clamp. (try and get that picture out of your head). the valves are done now, i had the intakes a little tight and the exhausts loose. i did them .009 and .018" because i felt like it.

the brake light switch was a different story. i took the switch apart and made sure it was working. might have been some binding in there that isnt there anymore. i made a groove in the threaded part of the switch and used a hose clamp to hold it on so it doesnt back out anymore. seems to work well but i have a new found hatred for working underneath the dash. im too big and my hands are way to big.

i also think there was air or something in the fuel pressure line that was making a false reading. it is idling between 15-17 now and at 10psi at WOT in 4th gear. it goes lower than that when the rpms are down but it doesnt matter i guess.

next thing is to get a clutch in there and see if thats my boost problem.