I hate my pull cable

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Oct 13, 2011 | 03:02 PM

#16

TRENDZ

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Joined: Sep 2009

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Yes. the industrial b and c motors with p pumps use a solenoid to overcome spring pressure to run, not to shut down. So if as mentioned, you make your manual shut down spring loaded "off" instead of "on", a p pump solenoid would work just as you requested. They have a dual winding solenoid. one winding pulls it open(momentary power from starter) the other winding holds it in the on position(continuous "key on" power)

Oct 13, 2011 | 04:25 PM

#17

Crossy's son

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Joined: Jan 2008

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From: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)

The cheap VW place that had the $10 solenoids is out of business now, the cheapest solenoid i have found was on some weird site for like $50, but that's because it was genuine bosch i think, there may be cheaper but i doubt it...i looked.

Oct 13, 2011 | 04:26 PM

#18

Crossy's son

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Joined: Jan 2008

Posts: 7,547

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From: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)

Quote:

Originally Posted by schamran

You're all gonna hate me for this, but I think a P-pump swap would fix your troubles.

I do have a few serious ideas though:

1) What if you could reverse the spring pressure on the kill lever and have a solenoid that held the lever in the "run" position when the ignition is on, similar to how the stock solenoid works?

2) Electric valve between LP and IP that is actuated by a relay triggered by the stock wiring to the stock FSS.

3) Electric LP that is actuated by a relay triggered by stock wiring to stock FSS.

Maybe these ideas are all garbage, but I have not heard them mentioned before. Thoughts?

Another thing, the rubber ripped off of my plunger, so I stretched the spring out, and I'm running without rubber, working good for the last month or so. Is this gonna hurt something in the future? Possibly cause metal shavings?

Thanks

The engine will still run for a while on the fuel in the lines/filter and the fuel that's in the pump.

Oct 13, 2011 | 07:27 PM

#19

Tacoclaw

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Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 47

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BearKiller

One point to consider with any electric means of operating the kill-lever is that it must keep the lever in the kill position at all times the engine is not running.

Otherwise, the truck could start itself with no one in it.

Couldn't you reverse the spring the lever already has on it so it holds it closed instead of open? Then you could use almost any solenoid you wanted, since it wouldn't need it's own spring return.

Heh, didn't make it all the way through the post, this was already suggested.

Oct 13, 2011 | 09:07 PM

#20

BearKiller

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Joined: Oct 2005

Posts: 6,457

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From: KENTUCKY

Quote:

Originally Posted by Onemoparnut

What bearkiller meant was with a stick truck if it tries to roll down a hill when left in gear it could start on its own.

THANKS.

They are even more likely to start when bumped by another vehicle.

Oct 13, 2011 | 10:01 PM

#21

BC847

1st Generation Admin

Joined: Jan 2005

Posts: 4,601

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From: Buies Creek, NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by BearKiller

They are even more likely to start when bumped by another vehicle.

Off Topic: My Grandfather was an OTR truck driver, I recall him telling a story about one afternoon when he drove back to the yard, he parked his old Peterbuilt, in gear, in front of the office while he went in to do some paperwork. Another driver came around the building in a hurry and ran into the rear of Granddad's truck. It started up, and proceeded to idle across the yard, and through two or three trailers.

He said it was NOT pretty.

Oct 16, 2011 | 08:17 PM

#22

ppiggppenn

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Joined: Feb 2007

Posts: 703

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From: MyTrailer, Canada

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJTman

Did any of you guys ever use one of these?

They're fully controllable and locking

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Ext...9&ci_sku=3ULH1

Heavy duty, weatherproof

I got a cable very like that at Gregg Distributing in Calgary for around that price. It replaces my cruise control that continues not to work despite about $300- in dealer parts. This cable is magic! All you do is squeeze the red button and pull the **** until it has your desired speed, then fine-tune it for hills etc by twisting the black **** for "vernier adjustment". To release it, simply hit the red **** and it snaps back to idle.

Last edited by BC847; Oct 16, 2011 at 09:14 PM. Reason: Short-cut to profanity

Oct 16, 2011 | 10:52 PM

#23

BearKiller

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Joined: Oct 2005

Posts: 6,457

Likes: 95

From: KENTUCKY

Quote:

Originally Posted by ppiggppenn

After becoming used to those wonderful Vernier-adjustable throttle-cables in big trucks, I put one in my F-350/Cummins and I love it.

Having a sharp eye at swap-meets, I have accumulated enough of them to cable up the rest of our fleet as soon as time allows.

I like the military LOCKING KILL-CABLEs from Saturn Surplus for the shut-down lever and also for the vacuum-over-hydraulic brake actuator.

When I pull back the TEE-handle and shut-down the engine, I just give the TEE a half-turn and it will stay locked until doomsday, whenever that is.