Has anyone use a 12 volt actuator or solenoid to shut their truck off instead of a pull cable. I can't seem to make a fss last cause I forget to back off the throttle slowly.

 

I'm currently looking into doing this. I've got a couple ideas of stuff I got laying around. I should have them done in the next week or so. I'll post back up with what did and didn't work. Not that it helps you right now, but you are NOT the only one that hates it!!!

 

McMaster-Carr is your friend in this search.

 

Many of the japanese engines use a shutdown solenoid on a timer of some sort. I know our Kubotas and Isuzu's we have at work have this setup, it pulls the shutdown and holds it for approx 30 seconds.
I'm not sure how exactly it works, but, I may look into it. I do like my pull cable shutdown though.

 

Myself, I very much prefer a manual cable shut-down system over any electrical or electronic system.


One point to consider with any electric means of operating the kill-lever is that it must keep the lever in the kill position at all times the engine is not running.

Otherwise, the truck could start itself with no one in it.

 

So the truck is going to insert the key and turn the ignition to crank its self over?

 

Well I reckon I'm the stick in the mud as I've been running the stock/OEM (albeit a milled tip) fuel shut-off solenoid with no issues as a daily-driver and regularly beating the crap out of the truck at the strip for years now. I'm led to believe larger injectors help in reducing the torn tips though (I'm running 6x.016").

Never had any issues with the truck starting itself either.

 

Might be able to use a power door lock solenoid from a 70s GM car, like the big Buicks we used to repair. They have about an inch stroke.

 

Where do you get the cheap $10 FSS from volkswagen? I'm in need of a new one cuz mine will stick sometimes (already ground down).

My other question is if i get a new one do I want to grind it down as well or leave it?

 

Since my motor is going in the ford, I'm just going to simplify life and put my manual shutdown cable in the ford and I already gutted the FSS.

My DDP4 sticks didn't help any with the longevity of my FSS either, once I turned the pump up a few turns.

 

Did any of you guys ever use one of these?


They're fully controllable and locking

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Ext...9&ci_sku=3ULH1


Heavy duty, weatherproof

 

What bearkiller meant was with a stick truck if it tries to roll down a hill when left in gear it could start on its own. I have no worries about that cause I have an auto.

 

I've got a 4500, but I trust my parking brake, I don't leave it in gear. Plus my front bumper will protect it from most forward rolling situations.

 

I was in Kino Bay, MX and I parked out in front of the "abarotes", a little store that is often in the owners house. I got out of the truck, forgot to set the brake and left it in neutral. When I came out, I thought it had been stolen. I found it nearly a block away, where it had rolled, straight as an arrow, down a non-noticeable slope. Since then it is left in gear with the parking brake...Mark

 

You're all gonna hate me for this, but I think a P-pump swap would fix your troubles.

I do have a few serious ideas though:

1) What if you could reverse the spring pressure on the kill lever and have a solenoid that held the lever in the "run" position when the ignition is on, similar to how the stock solenoid works?

2) Electric valve between LP and IP that is actuated by a relay triggered by the stock wiring to the stock FSS.

3) Electric LP that is actuated by a relay triggered by stock wiring to stock FSS.

Maybe these ideas are all garbage, but I have not heard them mentioned before. Thoughts?

Another thing, the rubber ripped off of my plunger, so I stretched the spring out, and I'm running without rubber, working good for the last month or so. Is this gonna hurt something in the future? Possibly cause metal shavings?

Thanks