I am at a lost for words....
08-11-2007, 10:23 AM
#16
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It doesn't take much of an impact to tweak the front end of the frame on these things.
I wouldn't say the truck is unsalvageable, but unless you have a buddy who does frame work it will be cheaper to find a good transplant patient instead.
I wouldn't say the truck is unsalvageable, but unless you have a buddy who does frame work it will be cheaper to find a good transplant patient instead.
08-16-2007, 04:34 PM
#20
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Thread Starter
Yea, I am thinking 25-30 now. At the moment that is what I was thinking but replaying it in my mind (Not really replay but a OSHA training video that you HAVE to watch, it just gets stuck in there). Plus some other stuff I notice while taking it apart. Man, it still replays like a bad dream 
Jon
Jon
08-16-2007, 06:09 PM
#21
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I dont know if its still on there or not but about 3wks or so ago a guy had a front clip on e-bay for like 300 bucks.I havent looked in awhile but in case you wanted to go that way........Glad to hear your ok ,sorry bout your rig bro
08-16-2007, 09:18 PM
#22
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Your grille looks better than mine.
Glad you are ok. I'd personally try to find a frame shop to straighten the frame and put stuff back where it goes.
rlyons- I hit a tree one morning on the way to work (leaned over to stop something on the passenger floor from rattling), and I was idling in 2nd gear. No frame damage, but it looked much worse than his. Sheetmetal is weak on these things. ANd most vehicles made after 1965.
You could always part out what you dont use. The axles are worth $5-800 apiece.
Daniel
Glad you are ok. I'd personally try to find a frame shop to straighten the frame and put stuff back where it goes.
rlyons- I hit a tree one morning on the way to work (leaned over to stop something on the passenger floor from rattling), and I was idling in 2nd gear. No frame damage, but it looked much worse than his. Sheetmetal is weak on these things. ANd most vehicles made after 1965.
You could always part out what you dont use. The axles are worth $5-800 apiece.
Daniel
08-16-2007, 09:27 PM
#23
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No lie bout the sheet metal. I was backing out of a parking lot, and had been on the road for several hours so was tired. Rolling bout 2mph and hit an i-beam support. Cratered the fender to the hood. I agree, shouldnt cost too much to fix it compared to doing a swap.
08-16-2007, 11:11 PM
#24
Registered User
Your frame is likely to be diamond'd a tiny bit. It's not expensive typically to fix this situation though. I almost cut a hyundi in two and my frame was only diamond'd about an inch. I would let the frame dictate your decision, but I would guess it's OK.
08-17-2007, 06:34 PM
#25
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Thread Starter
The cab is jacked about 2" from the original position. The cab mounts are bad and will require ALOT of work to get it back together. The new truck is going to be very cheap! The pro's and con's are:
Pros:
Nearly rust free
Shorter (4" blocks in the rear. I tow a GN occasionally and getting the neck under a 6" blocked rear is a pain)
Much better overall condition
Cons:
Std cab
Stock (but that is going to be fixed!
)
Jon
Pros:
Nearly rust free
Shorter (4" blocks in the rear. I tow a GN occasionally and getting the neck under a 6" blocked rear is a pain)
Much better overall condition
Cons:
Std cab
Stock (but that is going to be fixed!
)Jon
08-17-2007, 07:21 PM
#28
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PROBLEM WAS ... you hit the tree right with the pass. side frame rail
See if you can find a frame shop to pull you back straight ...shes a nice old truck good luck, Flip
See if you can find a frame shop to pull you back straight ...shes a nice old truck good luck, Flip
08-17-2007, 07:33 PM
#29
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For any descent frame shop it will be an easy fix.
My old 1-ton chevy went into a ditch at a 40 degree angle with a 12k pound gooseneck trailer attached. The truck looked totalled for sure. The left rear tire barely touched the ground when sitting on the flat driveway.
Took it to a local body shop with a frame machine and 2 hours later it was almost perfect. Once I replaced the right front fender , bumper, grill etc... It was fine.
The guy I eventually sold it to still drives it every day to work.
That was over 3 yrs ago. Get it on the rack and at least have it measured etc.. before you make any decision.
Oh, dont unbolt the cab etc.. before they work on it. When they pull on it it will be easier to tell if its straight and it will probably get the cab right back where it was in the first place. Good luck.
My old 1-ton chevy went into a ditch at a 40 degree angle with a 12k pound gooseneck trailer attached. The truck looked totalled for sure. The left rear tire barely touched the ground when sitting on the flat driveway.
Took it to a local body shop with a frame machine and 2 hours later it was almost perfect. Once I replaced the right front fender , bumper, grill etc... It was fine.
The guy I eventually sold it to still drives it every day to work.
That was over 3 yrs ago. Get it on the rack and at least have it measured etc.. before you make any decision.
Oh, dont unbolt the cab etc.. before they work on it. When they pull on it it will be easier to tell if its straight and it will probably get the cab right back where it was in the first place. Good luck.
08-17-2007, 07:38 PM
#30
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Thread Starter
You guys don't get it. The frame is straight! I hit it on the outside of the frame rails. The cab mounts are so rusty they tore through the rust. Sorry if I am crabby but I pulled something in my back last night while pulling the engine and work did not help the matter either. I will have my uncle take a look as he is a auto body repairman. Does very good work and knows his stuff.
Jon
Jon