How much Hp can these 1st gen pumps produce, with only pump tweaks?

These are some i'm aware of:
Fuel screw in
fuel pin,
3200 Governor spring
afc lever grind (take out)

what else?

sorry im a newbee to 1st gens,
I can tweak a 2nd gen pump to produce 400 HP without spending a dime...

how about a 1st gen?


Thanks bunches

 

I think the power for free to breakage of not free parts ratio is high. Cheaper than the inline pumps.

 

I managed to wring out 350hp with injectors (POD's), HTT stage IV compressor upgrade, custom fuel pin, on a tweaked but otherwise stock pump(3200 rpm spring only) and a few other things, see sig.

 

Cheap? Define cheap. My butt dyno says about 200hp with what I've done, and it wasn't cheap for my definition of the word by any stretch: Turbine housing, 366 spring, intake and exhaust mods cost altogether around $350 in parts (power mods only). Then there's my time, which if you go by the standard labor rates comes to at least a grand. Or if you go by the beer rate, about three cases.

Oh, and I forgot to mention one turn on the full power screw.

 

I have not been on a Dyno but can tell you I increased boost pressure from around 18 to 28-30 with pump tweaks, BHAF and intake mods and a 4" exhaust. Stock H1C and stock auto transmission, transmission mods required and coming soon. If the 1lb boost = 10hp roughly is true, I gained a lot for nothing. I doubt the exhaust added much but it did cut down EGT slightly when towing heavy and standing on the skinny pedal.

 

Your not going to get as much out of the VE as the P-pump for relatively free.

 

I never heard the 1lb boost = 10hp equations before. If that is true, then my addl' 16lbs boost from where I started stock would equal 160hp for a total of 320hp. Either my butt dyno has been knocked out of calibration from too many hard launches in the 340 Duster or this cannot be true.

 

You can get to around 250 HP before you have to spend money.

 

It is not a given. When folks chime in who actually Dyno the argument can be made though.

 

What can we do for free?

 

Take a look in the sticky. Lots of free stuff to do in there.

 

Not totally free sometimes but worth the investment, make sure the linkage is tight and dialed in, throttle travels fully, throttle cable stretched?, throttle pedal worn out? These things add up to lost potential.

 

A LOT!!!!!

We had this 1st genner, we sold to the junk yard now,

We had tweaked the pump a bit, but it lost power over the time....

we brought it to the shop, where they said the inj pump needs to be replaced...
well i looked under the hood, and told someone else to press the throttle, (engine off) and it wouldt even co0me close to the WOT stop screw,

i found the problem is the bracket there the go pedal is on (on the firewall)
i made a good bracket and put it under there, and a few other thibngs.

now that the pump gets full throttle movement, the turbo winds again, now it smokes again... now it has power again.... my bro proudly passed me in my 2001 with the ol 91 when he brough it to the junkyard....

thanks for the replies so far ppl!

 

What's the WOT stop screw look like You can shim the pedal out from the firewall to achieve a bit more travel too. The pedals and bracket are made cheap, I can't believe they last as long as they do. That is one of the first things I re-engineered when I got my CTD, the gassers don't wear out like that, they don't have as heavy a throttle action as the diesel.

 

How is the screw called like (the right way)? Or doesnt you truck have it anymore?

Well thats what i did, i shimmed the pedal fromn the firewall... actually took a square tubing 1/2" x 1" aprox, welded it together, and drilled holes into them, to fit over the studs(whatever they are called)