Heres what ive done guys, I just got my truck a couple weeks ago and this weekend I put in my Isspro boost and pyro. So obviously tapping the manifold in the dark only served one purpose....BOMBing in the morning.
So heres where im at: 2 turns on smoke, afc set deep, starwheel bottomed and 1 turn on full power. The Power is twice what it was but I NEED MORE! My egts are 1150ish wide open up hill til around 70 mph then obviously had to let off. My boost seems low compared to some ive read on here. 24-25 ish? It was 22ish until I adjusted my high idle and tightened throttle cable up.So what would yall do?I dont think the 3200 would help me much right now until i do something with this sloppy convertor,so aside from that? Crank the fuel screw another turn or air intake first? Im kinda worried about the horror stories of a runaway.Also what is the best way to get to my idle adjustment? Thanks Josh

 

If your converter is really that sloppy then that will help keep EGTs down. It won't be able to load the engine enough to get into piston melting EGT temps like so many of us are used to . Until then, crank the full fuel screw (don't be scared) and DO install the 3200 spring, it's a WORLD of difference.

You can adjust the idle screw with a bent or cut and welded wrench.

 

I would put the smoke screw back it doesnt help anything but make smoke. Turn the fuel screw more. Make sure your linkage is getting full travel. Did you turn your ecentric cone? Open the exhaust and let it breathe, also drilling your air box or better intake helps

 

Won't turning in the smoke screw help the turbo spool up quicker?

With 60psi of boost you're getting pleanty of air. Too much I'd wager. You could blow a head gasket soon as you put a load behind it. I would back it off to a maximum of 45 and that's probably to high for some. Mine is set for 35 psi max.

I think Cummins says that you can run 1200 degrees EGT pre-turbo for sustained periods but don't go over that for very long. Make sure you give it a good cool down time before you turn off the key. The oil flowing through the bearings keeps them cool until the "cool" exhaust gets the turbine down to a temp that won't cook your oil and coke up the bearings.

Edwin

 

Smoke screw supposedly will help on a stock truck. He isnt getting 60-he is just saying what his boost gauge is.

 

DOH!

 

With what u have done so far, back the "smoke screw" back out to almost stock. It really doesnt do a darned thing except blow smoke till the turbo catches up. (till I see dyno results with ONLY smoke screw tampering I wont believe otherwise)
Of all the things I have tampered with on my IP I have played with the smoke screw the most, I dropped EGT's when I returned it from 2 full turns in to 1/2 turn in, as others have stated before as well.

Also 1250 is the breaking point for EGT's. thats where aluminum melts, but its gotta be 1250+ for a little bit longer then 3 seconds.

 

For the record, Cummins defines the 1250*F temperature as that where one can run the engine at 100% duty-cycle.


. . . . Meaning at the nameplates rated output, you can run it 160hp/400ftlbs all day long.

 

Ok, ill back off the smoke screw and give the power screw another turn, which in turn will bump the boost up some more right? Im just kinda disapointed it didnt get up to even 30 psi considering alot of guys running around at 35 or so. Also about the runaway part how will I know before my truck tries to fly away?

 

You'll know you're very close to run-away if when you blip the throttle, the engine pauses before returning to idle. Like it was not going to come back down. You'll figure that one out right quick.


Want more boost? You're gonna be upset when we suggest you bump the IP timing a bit as it will reduce the EGT's a bit and therefore the boost will drop a bit. But you'll pick up some HP on the top end at the expense of a little bottom end torque.

Hope this helps.