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How to fit 4" exhaust between the cross member and t-case?

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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 10:00 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by gyman98
Lots of guys remove the one angled brace to allow fitment. I haven't heard of any issues resulting from this but I've never done it
I thought about that. Not quite ready to do it yet. That will be a solution of last resort. I also thought about cutting out the factory one and replacing it with a fabbed up one modified to accommodate the exhaust. Seems like a lot of work for 4" exhaust.
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 10:07 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mknittle
Those band clamp mounts are pretty slick! I remember seeing those on your build thread.
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ofelas
No trimming needed with that combination.

Bolts on with enough clearance around firewall & transfer case.
Its reaaallll close to that rubber cover over the heater box. Does that rubber cover actually do anything useful? It would be much easier to remove that or notch it out than to mess with cutting and welding the pipe. I thought about putting some aluminum tape or HVAC tape on the rubber cover behind the pipe to reflect heat. There's about an 1/8" between them.
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 02:07 PM
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maybe this will help.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...Header%20Wraps
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 02:47 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by mknittle
Or you could install it as it comes and never worry about it again?
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 03:58 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by j.fonder
Or you could install it as it comes and never worry about it again?
That would be too easy
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 04:13 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by j.fonder
Or you could install it as it comes and never worry about it again?
Man...wouldn't that be nice .
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 04:15 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by MrFusion
Thanks for all the responses. I'll probably mess with it some this weekend. I chose the FloPro kit because it came with the band clamps instead of the U clamps. I figured it would be easier to adjust or repair than the u clamps.
I did have to make one mod on my DE Exhaust. On the down pipe, I found it was easier to bend the pipe inwards than to tilt it towards the transmission because as I drove around, the pipe vibrated against the upper inward section of the trucks frame that lies right next to the down pipe. I guess that's why I never had any issue fitting in the crossmember. So, I took a torch, heated up that area just inside the framerail inner upper section, and bent it nicely inwards. Never an issue since, and I've had the down pipe out a few times because of the trans flexplate replacement saga.

SO the point is that if you can isolate the interference area of the pipe, you can remove it, hit it with a torch, and massage it inwards a bit. Then test fit and fuggetaboutit.
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 12:46 PM
  #24  
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Band clamps are the way to go. My local heavy truck vendor sells them for about 10 bucks each, and the are reusable. I went with them when I put my Stans exhaust in my 1990
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 02:29 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BHD
Band clamps are the way to go. My local heavy truck vendor sells them for about 10 bucks each, and the are reusable. I went with them when I put my Stans exhaust in my 1990
I, too, have used Stan's systems. In fact, I've put them in on my 4x4 that I own now, and also on my D250 I sold back in 2010. The fit up was perfect on both trucks, and the only mod that was required was to cut off a portion of the straight pipe into the muffler, if you didn't own the extra cab model.

You did pay for the perfect fit up, though, as now I see that his kits are almost double the cost of the other makes. Was wondering why more folks didn't use his kit
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 07:29 PM
  #26  
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I got the pipe situated between the frame and t-case after 2 hours of messing with it. Lesson learned: place that pipe first, not the downpipe.
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 10:06 PM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by MrFusion
I got the pipe situated between the frame and t-case after 2 hours of messing with it. Lesson learned: place that pipe first, not the downpipe.
Couldn't you place the down pipe in, then install the pipe above the frame, entering from the back side of the truck ? That's how I did mine, or at least that's how I remember it.
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 11:48 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by NJTman
Couldn't you place the down pipe in, then install the pipe above the frame, entering from the back side of the truck ? That's how I did mine, or at least that's how I remember it.
That's what I did at first. I ended up sliding the t-case pipe in from the rear of the truck but had to rotate it 90* to finish sliding it through. It was jammed between the t-case and frame so I put one of those chain vise grip clamps on it for leverage and rotated/pushed it until it popped into position. Once that was done it was wedged above the down pipe. I had to remove the down pipe to free the t-case pipe. As soon as the down pipe was off the t-case pipe fell right into position. I slip fit those two pipes then loosely connected the down pipe to the turbo exhaust flange. Hopefully I'll get the rest done today. Definitely going to need to modify the twin stick bracket though.
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 11:54 PM
  #29  
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I put the rest of the exhaust (except the tail pipe) on tonight. I'm pretty happy with it. I have about 1/4" of clearance between the pipe and the frame/tc at all points. The down pipe is all but touching the rubber heater box cover. Not sure what I'm going to do about that yet. I also noticed that the thin crappy stock muffler mount brackets have a LOT of flex/movement. I'm pretty sure I'll be making a stronger front bracket and probably a stiffer rear bracket. Compared to a 2nd gen bracket I have lying around the 1st gen brackets are a joke.
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 08:38 AM
  #30  
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I'm a big fan of these kind of exhaust hangers. Bolt them on the frame and weld to the pipe. They take vibration really well and there is no need for another exhaust clamp to mount them on the pipe.
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