how does your automatic hold up
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 114
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From: Northeast PA, about an hour from everywhere
I have some of the "free ip upgrades", plus the 3200 spring. My auto (with 104k) tends to go in and out of overdrive sometimes. When the weather warms up a bit I'll adjust or replace the tps.
I do have some slip, mostly when towing, (often as much as 10k), I attribute it to a weak torque converter. That'll most likely be my next investment.
Sometimes when towing, I manually work through the gears, instead of relying on the auto - much better at pullin the hills, esp. from a dead stop.
I suppose I could beat it to death in short order. But driving somewhat conservatively (I know - less fun), it has always brought me back home.
I do have some slip, mostly when towing, (often as much as 10k), I attribute it to a weak torque converter. That'll most likely be my next investment.
Sometimes when towing, I manually work through the gears, instead of relying on the auto - much better at pullin the hills, esp. from a dead stop.
I suppose I could beat it to death in short order. But driving somewhat conservatively (I know - less fun), it has always brought me back home.
So the stock automatic transmission/torque converter can only handle the stock power level of 160 HP and 400 FT LBS the intercooled Cummins puts out? Can it handle a tad bit more, say 200 HP and 500 FT LBS? What about a stock transmission setup with the factory under the bed transmission cooler? I have the factory under the bed cooler mounted on the driver's side front of the flatbed, but it isn't connected to the transmission now (capped off). It seems like us auto transmission guys have to at least have a second cooler and a upgraded torque converter to at least support marginal gains when increasing power. I'm planning on achieving 250-275 HP and 600-700 FT LBS, but am worried I'll have to pull the low mileage automatic trans to make it durable enough to handle that power. I'd rather not bump the power levels up to the above numbers first and then have the transmission blow with less than 110-120,000 miles on it. What would one recommend to do to the transmission (not necessarily rebuilding it) to upgrade it to comfortably handle the increased power of the engine? Thanks for any advice.
Salvy
Salvy
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I'd go for a good diesel oriented valve body and torque convertor, preferrably from the same shop. Talk to people, make phone calls, and see what floats your boat.
I think the biggest weak link of the autos is the torque convertor, and that is why I wont own another without upgrading it immeidately. I had a 92 dually that got 22-23mpg empty, and decent towing MPG, but the performance absolutely stunk on ice. I sold it rather than put (then) $2500 in it to handle the loads. Some are better than others, and I think a lot depends on your point of view. One person's loose convertor may be ok or even tight to another person.
I'd get the tranny to hold what I want in the end, then start tuning the engine.
Daniel
I think the biggest weak link of the autos is the torque convertor, and that is why I wont own another without upgrading it immeidately. I had a 92 dually that got 22-23mpg empty, and decent towing MPG, but the performance absolutely stunk on ice. I sold it rather than put (then) $2500 in it to handle the loads. Some are better than others, and I think a lot depends on your point of view. One person's loose convertor may be ok or even tight to another person.
I'd get the tranny to hold what I want in the end, then start tuning the engine.
Daniel
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