How does the M&H Timing Spacer work??
06-04-2010, 10:50 PM
#31
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The concept is easy. You unbolt the KSB, add spacer and assoicated insert to keep spring tension, add longer allen bolts and put it all back together.
The 2 bolts holding the KSB on are kind of a pain to get to though.
The 2 bolts holding the KSB on are kind of a pain to get to though.
06-05-2010, 01:37 AM
#32
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Naw, its on my list. I have been too busy to get much done lately and I am saving what little $$ I have to get back on my crew project. I think it has been over a year since I posted progress. I advocate it because I think I understand it. I do not know much about timing other than you need more than stock advance to make power at speed. I have also been reading that you lose some low rpm grunt and diminish desirable towing characteristics with advanced timing. So this little spacer holds the timing advance thingy a little farther from the stop doohicky so that it can move another 4mm as the engine winds, but, yet, leaves things the way they should be off idle. Sounds like a gem to me.
06-05-2010, 06:30 AM
#33
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I was reading what some of the other guys had written and it seems like a real nice product. Blackford explained it in laymans terms enough to where I could understand what it's supposed to do. 
A gem? You bet! Very smart, Alwaysworking. Always thinking too, I'd say! 
06-06-2010, 12:28 PM
#35
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I had my KSB off a year ago because it was full of jelly. The two bolts were easy to get to (by my standards) so it should be as easy as a fuel pin to do. When I first saw it I thought you had to pull the IP off so it went to the back burner with the IP overhaul.
06-06-2010, 08:28 PM
#37
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im going to put one in this week so ill do as much as i can to show how its done. i usually start taking pics but my hands get so dirty that i say screw it and quit touching the camera lol
06-06-2010, 08:29 PM
#38
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06-06-2010, 11:45 PM
#40
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I have a quick question, and then depending on the answer, I may be the guiney pig and run back to back before and after dyno's.
With my truck being a track toy and never towing or hauling, my timing is bumped to the head and could use a little more timing. Can I leave my timing to the head and add the spacer for even more high RPM power? I'll be spinning somewhere around 3,600-3,800rpm's, trying to get thru the 1/4 mile traps in the top of 4th gear.
SO, if it will help me add HP on the top end it may be worth picking up to take with me to Relentless Diesel to dyno the truck again.
With my truck being a track toy and never towing or hauling, my timing is bumped to the head and could use a little more timing. Can I leave my timing to the head and add the spacer for even more high RPM power? I'll be spinning somewhere around 3,600-3,800rpm's, trying to get thru the 1/4 mile traps in the top of 4th gear.
SO, if it will help me add HP on the top end it may be worth picking up to take with me to Relentless Diesel to dyno the truck again.
06-07-2010, 05:14 AM
#41
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Okay I talked to Thomas. The maximum, in a stock truck, that the timing piston can move for lack of a better term is 2.4mm. So low end is good but when it hits that limitation there is no more advancement so the high end loses power. After putting the spacer on it allows the piston to move another 4mm to around 6.4 max, so your timing keeps "dynamically" advancing past the 2.4mm limitation and the timing keeps advancing as the rpm's get higher. Thus the best of both worlds. He said that his pump is back in the stock position with the spacer on. That's the skinny on it according to how my "pea brain" interprets it. I like the idea myself.
06-07-2010, 09:16 AM
#42
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Not the case. I asked him "can I return my pump to stock position" and he said that 's what he did. There was never any other discussion but I believe that bumping the pump for more timing with the spacer is an option too.
