Homebuilt Hybrid
#1
Yes the wheel will go right on the shaft of the h1c... I did this swap and liked it alot... I have a HX40 in need of a rebuild and got a new H1E for free so I built the H1C/H1E Hybrid for the time being. So after some disscussion on here and some other site I decided to go ahead and hybrid my H1C and H1E turbos together. So Here is a quick write up.... Oh And I recomend useing a work bench instead of your wifes carpet floors... The turbo tends to leave rings of rust/oil on the floor... This turbo ended up costing me about $2000 by the time I got done putting down the hard wood to replace my wifes carpet.
Just a quick over view of what goes into making a holset hybrid turbo. I didn't even have to take the H1C off the truck! Luckly Holset uses 4 8mm bolts on the rear of alot of the backing plates for the compressors allowing you to simply swap them. So grab a beer and hang on!
Here is the H1E turbo
Start by removing the V-Band Clamp that holds the compressor housing on...
Then pull it off revealing the compressor wheel
Next I removed the 4 bolts holding on the exhaust housing...
The housing does not bolt to the center section, there are two clamps that hold it. This allows you to clock the center section so the oil flow is correct for you application.
If you are not working with a new turbo you might have to persuade the exhaust housing off... This might be as easy as a few light taps with a deadblow hammer to a last resort of breaking out a torch, if you do this you run a REAL high risk of baking the seals and having to rebuild the turbo.
Now we can take off the compressor wheel... these have a left hand thread... that mean you turn the not clockwise to remove it. On the H1E the compressor and exhaust nuts are 12 point and on my stock 89 H1C the nut on the exhaust is 12 and the compressor is 6. This will be very important when you reassemble it you need to torque teh nut to 150 in. lb. if it's a 6-point nut, 135 in. lb. if it's a 12-point nut. After removing the wheel you can pull teh exhaust wheel and shaft out as one piece
After the shaft is out of the way we can start taking off the backing plate. Here are the 4 bolts I was just talking about that makes this swap pretty easy.
Just a quick over view of what goes into making a holset hybrid turbo. I didn't even have to take the H1C off the truck! Luckly Holset uses 4 8mm bolts on the rear of alot of the backing plates for the compressors allowing you to simply swap them. So grab a beer and hang on!
Here is the H1E turbo
Start by removing the V-Band Clamp that holds the compressor housing on...
Then pull it off revealing the compressor wheel
Next I removed the 4 bolts holding on the exhaust housing...
The housing does not bolt to the center section, there are two clamps that hold it. This allows you to clock the center section so the oil flow is correct for you application.
If you are not working with a new turbo you might have to persuade the exhaust housing off... This might be as easy as a few light taps with a deadblow hammer to a last resort of breaking out a torch, if you do this you run a REAL high risk of baking the seals and having to rebuild the turbo.
Now we can take off the compressor wheel... these have a left hand thread... that mean you turn the not clockwise to remove it. On the H1E the compressor and exhaust nuts are 12 point and on my stock 89 H1C the nut on the exhaust is 12 and the compressor is 6. This will be very important when you reassemble it you need to torque teh nut to 150 in. lb. if it's a 6-point nut, 135 in. lb. if it's a 12-point nut. After removing the wheel you can pull teh exhaust wheel and shaft out as one piece
After the shaft is out of the way we can start taking off the backing plate. Here are the 4 bolts I was just talking about that makes this swap pretty easy.
#2
After removing them the backing plate comes right off and you are left with this...
Do the same steps to the H1C then reverse it to put the compressor wheel, backing plate, and compressor housing off the H1E onto the H1C.
And this is what you get... Looks like I'm gonna need a custom cross over pipe!
Do the same steps to the H1C then reverse it to put the compressor wheel, backing plate, and compressor housing off the H1E onto the H1C.
And this is what you get... Looks like I'm gonna need a custom cross over pipe!
#3
Here is the intake I made.
3/4" plate with 2.5" tube coming out. Had a bead rolled in it so that it would hold the boot a little better.
Welded on the inside so that it looks REAL clean
My Sylicone Boots...
On the truck, Gonna paint it w/ some High Temp paint... Just don't know what color... I'm thinking white with some siler tin roof paint to match the rest the truck!
3/4" plate with 2.5" tube coming out. Had a bead rolled in it so that it would hold the boot a little better.
Welded on the inside so that it looks REAL clean
My Sylicone Boots...
On the truck, Gonna paint it w/ some High Temp paint... Just don't know what color... I'm thinking white with some siler tin roof paint to match the rest the truck!
#4
On a 0-60 run before the hybrid I could peg the Pyro at 1500*, I ran a boy in a Civic up to 80 mph and it took the neddle 3 seconds to come off the peg. I dont even WANT to know how hot it was with the Hybrid I can keep my foot in it as long as I want and all I can get it to is 1300* Also cleaned up all the full throttle smoke! Needs more Cow Bell... eeerrrr Fuel Screw...
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#11
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Cedar Grove, New Jersey
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looks great, next you turn yup the fuel screw, and then do a nice phot layout of the instalation of an intercooler onto that setup......... then bigger stix.........
#15
Registered User
You did the same as the other guy on here that had an hx40, ditched the much better turbine wheel and housing from the hx40 and only used the compressor wheel and housing with his h1c or hx35.
I would look into using the turbine wheel and shaft from the hx40/h1e in my h1c turbine housing. You would have a really nice hybrid then. Nothing a little machine work can do.
Can you measure the compressor wheel inducer and turbine wheel exducer? (Both smallest measurements on each wheel.)
I would look into using the turbine wheel and shaft from the hx40/h1e in my h1c turbine housing. You would have a really nice hybrid then. Nothing a little machine work can do.
Can you measure the compressor wheel inducer and turbine wheel exducer? (Both smallest measurements on each wheel.)