1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

heater voltage drop fix?

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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 05:03 AM
  #16  
Jim Lane's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Begle1
The rockin' way to do it would be to run the computer off of the wiring harness without a power supply or inverter; it's all 12 volts DC, right?

Never seen an electrician brave enough to try it, though.
A computer power supply consist of +5 volt, -5 volt, +12 volt, -12 volt rails of varying currents up to as high as 30-40 amps and stability is very critical. Varying as little as 0.1 volt on any of the rails will cause problems.

Also most laptops require around 19.0 volts DC input from the external power supply. There is an external auto/ aircraft adapter available for them that is a DC/ DC inverter that steps up 12 volts to 19 volts.

The safest way would still be to power it from a good sinewave inverter connected to your battery
.
Mobile computers (MDT’s) have a 12 or 24-volt power supply but they are very complicated and would not be cheap to build.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 05:12 AM
  #17  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins Parts Catalog / 6BT5.9 / Bulletin No. 3672006-00 (Chrysler 250/350 1993 Pickups) Printed 6/92

(Group No. 13.06) (Option No. AH9020) page 2 ~

" . . . . Air Intake Heater ~ 220amps @ 12volts . . . . . "


Wonder which heats up more, the grids of the small wire that feeds them?
Jim
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 10:34 AM
  #18  
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From: over yonder back there
Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins Parts Catalog / 6BT5.9 / Bulletin No. 3672006-00 (Chrysler 250/350 1993 Pickups) Printed 6/92

(Group No. 13.06) (Option No. AH9020) page 2 ~

" . . . . Air Intake Heater ~ 220amps @ 12volts . . . . . "


Wonder which heats up more, the grids of the small wire that feeds them?
Jim


so your saying it may be of benefit to use thicker wire between the grids and the solenoids, and the solenoids and the batteries? Also, i do not have the solenoids in my truck anymore, and was considering putting new ones in, but having them on a master switch, so that they do not run unless i want them too. I do not see why you couldnt use a universal type solenoid, such as a starting solenoid from a lawn tractor. They look pretty much the same. You seem pretty knowlegable in the electronics department, and i find your electrical posts very helpful.

Last edited by EClancy; Jan 28, 2007 at 10:34 AM. Reason: cant spell
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 11:58 AM
  #19  
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Question

Running thicker cables to supply the heater grids will not address the concerns Thomtek5 has (overall voltage drop). It would only decrease the voltage drop to the heaters themselves. Changing nothing else, the only way would be to increase battery capacity or alternator capacity.


HOWEVER, . . . . .

Seeing that the CTD has in fact two (2) separate heater circuits powered by two (2) individual relays, one might consider Staging them.

A few notes beforehand ~

Originally Posted by Operation and Maintenance Manual / Industrial B3.9, B4.5, and B5.9 Series Engines. Bulletin 4021389. Printed Aug 2005
A grid heater is available that improves cold weather starting characteristics by heating the intake air. It can also serve to reduce white smoke if it is energized during cold ambient temperatures while the engine is at idle.

The electric grid heater operates in a preheat and post heat mode. The length of heater on-time is a function of the engine temperature.

If the engine ambient air temperature is greater than 19*C (66*F), the electric grid air heater system will not be activated. If the engine ambient air temperature is below 19*C (66*F), the system will operate as follows:

Engine Starting Cycle
1. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position. When the key is in this position, the WAIT-TO-START lamp will be illuminated for approximately 25 seconds. Do not crank the engine until the WAIT-TO-START lamp shuts off.
2. When the WAIT-TO-START lamp goes out, the preheat cycle is complete. Depress the accelerator pedal and crank the engine.
3. Post heating occurs as the grid heater elements are cycled for a while with the engine running. Post-heating helps warm the engine up faster and eliminates white smoke. Post-heating is determined by the engine ambient air temperature upon start-up.

NOTE: The controller is reset each time the ignition switch is turned off and the cycle will start over.
A NOTE FROM ME: It appears there's an error in the printing as the manual fails to spell out the post-heat cycle. They simply print "POST-HEAT" .. . . then nothing.

Anyhoot, what if one were to install a manually adjustable thermostat that would only allow one grid heater relay to be energized at 66*? The second, thermostat controlled relay would fire at say .. . 35*F.

With that, in milder cold weather, only 1/2 the normal amperage (110a @ 12v) would be drawn lessening the demand on the electrical system as a whole while possibly still addressing the engine builders concerns.


. . . [insert evil grin]
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 12:46 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by BC847
...anyhoot, what if one were to install a manually adjustable thermostat that would only allow one grid heater relay to be energized at 66*? The second, thermostat controlled relay would fire at say .. . 35*F.

With that, in milder cold weather, only 1/2 the normal amperage (110a @ 12v) would be drawn lessening the demand on the electrical system as a whole while possibly still addressing the engine builders concerns.


. . . [insert evil grin]

Eeeeexellent idea. One additional part, couple wires, Simple. Efficient. I love it. I'm gonna do it. Someday. Maybe. When I have nothing better to do...
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 03:05 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by EClancy
I do not see why you couldnt use a universal type solenoid, such as a starting solenoid from a lawn tractor. They look pretty much the same.
Those relays are power switched. The relays on our trucks have power all the time, the PCM or black box just switches the ground side. To use a Ford starter relay (I'd use one of them before one for a tractor, they are heavier and cheaper) you need to add a universal 30 amp relay to run it. The relays we use are available online for around $15 each from Mouser Electronics, the part # is Stancor 120-901.

Originally Posted by BC847
HOWEVER, . . . . .

Seeing that the CTD has in fact two (2) separate heater circuits powered by two (2) individual relays, one might consider Staging them.

A few notes beforehand ~



A NOTE FROM ME: It appears there's an error in the printing as the manual fails to spell out the post-heat cycle. They simply print "POST-HEAT" .. . . then nothing.

Anyhoot, what if one were to install a manually adjustable thermostat that would only allow one grid heater relay to be energized at 66*? The second, thermostat controlled relay would fire at say .. . 35*F.

With that, in milder cold weather, only 1/2 the normal amperage (110a @ 12v) would be drawn lessening the demand on the electrical system as a whole while possibly still addressing the engine builders concerns.


. . . [insert evil grin]
The system already alternates between heaters on the post-heat cycle. It only runs both during pre-heat.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 03:27 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by wannadiesel
The system already alternates between heaters on the post-heat cycle. It only runs both during pre-heat.
DOH! You are correct. So says the FSM wiring diagrams.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 03:33 PM
  #23  
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Still would be nice to use just one for starting in the range between around 20 and 50 degrees
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 03:37 PM
  #24  
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Pull a wire off the control side of one, then.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 03:50 PM
  #25  
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But then I'd have to open the hood and put it back on when the temp drops too low.
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