Folks,

I have been reading the article in the sticky about replacing the head gasket, in addition to reading the FSM that I have. Now, in the sticky, removing the valve rockers is mentioned, as well as removing the injectors.

A friend of mine owns and operates his own auto repair shop, and has been in business for quite some time. Needless to say, I value his input on things. In talking about doing my head gasket, he mentioned that he would only loosen the valve rocker bolts enough to remove the pushrods, and that he wouldn't bother removing the injectors.

Do you all have any thoughts on this? Pros and Cons? I appreciate the input. Any tips and tricks that you all might have to make the job go easier would also be appreciated

Jake

 

Well the bare bones thing weighs like 200lbs or something so depending on how you are getting it off and packing it around every bit off helps. Also, if you plan to have it machined it should come off anyway. And I took the opportunity while the beast was down and the injectors out to have them cleaned and pop tested and new coppers installed.

But I'm just a farmer mechanic, those that know will chime in.

I just went by the sticky and had no problems. I also took the opportunity, while everything was apart, to kdp, replace the water pump, thermostat, idler, etc.

 

If you are doing the head gasket, there are a few things you should do, while you are there....send the head out to a machine shop, have the valves checked, and the head itself cleaned and valves repaired/checked as needed. Injectors should be removed and tested as well. Also, have your mechanic check the head bolts for stretch/distortion, and replace as needed.

A head bolt runs thru each rocker support assembly, so those will have to be removed; its easier on these to remove the head bolt and the rocker support bolt and assembly to get the pushrods out. He'll also have to run the overhead once all that is back together, but that should be no sweat for a good mechanic shop....

 

When I did my head gasket, I left the injectors in place. Next time I will pull them. The tips protrude through the bottom of the deck, so you have to be careful not to damage them. If you can buy or make a puller tool it's probably worth yanking them out, and also removing the fuel heater, just so you can easily set the head down flat and work on it.
I used an engine hoist to remove/replace the head and removing the hood was not necessary. I think the sticky says otherwise.
The rocker assemblies are easy to get off and back on. I think it would probably be more of a hassle if they were left on. Just guessing.
Another thing that comes to mind: When I did mine, I did the timing gear case too (massive oil leak). I bought a Cummins head gasket, a Fel-Pro head gasket set (sans head gasket), and a Fel-Pro timing cover gasket set. I found that the timing cover set does not include a vacuum pump gasket nor an injection pump gasket. However there is a Fel-Pro complete engine seal kit that does include those two gaskets and costs about the same as the two sets that I bought. Just throwing that out there in case you, or any one reading, is thinking about doing the same.

-Niemand

 

I made a 12V injector puller out of a short piece of copper pipe, a larger washer and a lug nut.
Slide the short sleeve of copper piping over the injector, top with the washer and thread the lug nut into the injector top, it will force against the washer and pipe and pulls the injector right out.
Cheap and easy!

 

Plan to change my injectors today and am using same trick but I've read PVC pipe works also so am giving that a shot.

 

I used the same technique with a piece of lead pipe and nut. I think I used a sticky from here.