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H1c wont come apart.....

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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 09:49 AM
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H1c wont come apart.....

Trying to remove the exhaust side of the turbo.

Turbos on the bench,I backed the 4 bolts out but it's stuck together....

I soaked it for a week now no change, even added heat.

Anyone run into this? Or am I doing this all wrong and should be slapped

-Jason
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 10:08 AM
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From: port crane, NY
You need a hammer...a BIG hammer. It's kind of like trying to be subtle with a chainsaw--you're gonna have to smack the snot outta that housing. It'll move, but it might take a half hour of banging on it. As soon as it moves, switch to a smaller hammer. Try and work it one side to the other in order to keep the turbine wheel from binding on the housing. Check that the wheel spins every couple hits. You can usually look in there and see what side it's hitting on and adjust your hammering appropriately. There will be swearing involved, and likely a bloodied knuckle or two...just make sure to only hit the cast iron housing and you'll be fine.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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OR, If you are replacing the exhaust housing and don't care what it looks like when you are done, carefully slice and dice with an angle grinder. That was the fate of my old 21cm housing. It took three cut off wheels and about two hours of cutting , beating and swearing. Make sure there is a fresh box of Band-aids close.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 10:24 AM
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Bwahaha


I have been smacking it I just didnt want to admit it thinking it was wrong......

I think I'll try more swearing

Thanks for the right direction!!


-Jason
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 11:01 AM
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beat the thing to death. youd be surprised how hard you have to wack it and for how long sometimes....
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 02:49 PM
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Just to clarify - you are NOT trying to knock the housing off the turbo with the big hammer - all you are doing is beating on that turbine housing for all you're worth to shock it loose. Just lay it on the floor and wail on it. Every couple licks, look to see if anything has moved. It usually takes 15 to 20 minutes of hammering to get it loose, so keep at it. Once it moves, then switch to the small hammer and start trying to knock it off. Keep spinning the turbo so you can tell when you need to switch sides.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by wannadiesel
Just to clarify - you are NOT trying to knock the housing off the turbo with the big hammer - all you are doing is beating on that turbine housing for all you're worth to shock it loose. Just lay it on the floor and wail on it. Every couple licks, look to see if anything has moved. It usually takes 15 to 20 minutes of hammering to get it loose, so keep at it. Once it moves, then switch to the small hammer and start trying to knock it off. Keep spinning the turbo so you can tell when you need to switch sides.
NOW he tells me
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 06:57 PM
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Baotnik, LOL

my technique is to hold the turbo up with one hand by the compressor housing. take a 2lb slegde and beat the flat surface of the turbine housing REALLLLLLY hard 3-5 times. That's usually when you start to loose your grip. spin to make the shaft is free, turn the turbo a little and repeat, 3-5 smacks with the hammer. keep an eye on the area where they come together but if you're like me you won't really be able to tell when it's moving at first... that's why you spin the shaft. as soon as the fins are scaping the housing inspect closer, this is when you beat lighter and more selectively to walk the housing off. the arm holding the turbo up gets kinda tired but i like to think gravity helps a little also the aluminum compressor housing is not getting beat up by the concrete floor.
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 02:28 AM
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At the turbo shop I worked at, and now, my method for removing a stubborn turbine housing is similar to the above post...

Grab the compressor housing outlet with your left hand (if you're right handed )

Hold the turbo a few inches off the top of a workbench

Grab your sledge hammer and cuss the turbo a few times before giving it a few whacks on the side of the exhaust housing.

It should come off fairly easily once the "seal" of carbon and soot is broken. Sometimes I'll put the clamps and bolts in a few turns just to keep the housing from coming off at an angle and damaging the turbine wheel.

Just be glad the little H1C isn't a bigger turbo! Those are reeeeaal fun to get apart.
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 08:51 AM
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I am wanting to swap my turbo housing from a 21cm to either a 12 or 16.

Does anyone have pics of exactly where they are hitting? beating etc. I would like to get a better idea of this step by step if possible.

Also I have a 12 cm wg housing and it does not look the same where the housing should attach to the down pipe. It is flat with bolt holes not a tube that can be blamped to the downpipt. am I missing a part?
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 09:48 AM
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Your missing the part that bolts to the V-band clamp. It bolts into those holes you are looking at. Not sure where to find one, others will ckime in I'm sure. The part that you are hitting is the exhaust housing. If your turbo is attached to the manifold, it is the big round part towards the rear of the truck. There should be 4 bolts holding it on. That is the part that everyone is beating away from the compressor housing...
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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ok, im looking into ordering a 16 really soon and i was wondering should i be putting PB on anything other than the manifold bolts. And i as well would love to see just where to hit the housing at.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by gomerpile
ok, im looking into ordering a 16 really soon and i was wondering should i be putting PB on anything other than the manifold bolts. And i as well would love to see just where to hit the housing at.
Just lay the turbo on the floor and hit the turbine housing anywhere on its outside diameter. Use a 2 lb. hammer. All you're doing is shocking the joint between the housing and the center section, not trying to drive the two pieces apart. It sounds like it wouldn't work, but it does. If you try to dive them apart before they break loose, you risk breaking the center section instead. Once it's loose, switch to a 1 lb. or 12 oz. hammer and tap the housing off gently.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 04:21 PM
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I tried the above mentioned methods to seperate my HX35 from the 14cm housing, to no avail. I finally took a 24 oz framing hammer, put the claw portion against the oil drain (or inlet, depending on which side yer on), braced the center against the exhaust housing, and smacked the head of the hammer a good 3-4 times with a 8# hammer (would have liked a 12 or 16, but they are too bulky with their long handles and all). It finally broke loose, then I just had to tap on it around the edges to keep it square with the cartridge.

Daniel
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 04:27 PM
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This is a good time to impart some trivial knowledge. Rust expands seven to one by volume. It is stronger than Crazy Glue.
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