The swap was not as easy as I thought it would be. Its always just my luck to get stuck on one bolt, good thing I gotta nice 4lb sledge and big chissle. lol Plus the extra turbo sitting around helps with parts. It does spool quicker, and other than running a slightly higher boost around town it feels the same. I guess the 21cm wasnt that bad around town after all. The big difference came when I raced my wife, she was driving the Blazer. I was sideways through 2nd and 3rd but quickly cought up with her and passed her in 4th and 5th. After I topped out on mph though she did the old ricer flyby. I should retune that thing to have a 65mph speed limiter, that'll get her. lol We were on a private closed road here in Katy, so no it wasnt at the track, but it wasnt on public roads either.

Anyway, I dont have the fittings to plumb the wg actuater yet so its unhooked. Will it open on its own if I get too much air flowing or will it just hold shut? I was pegging 30psi with the 21cm, so I dont want to lift the head or melt a piston just yet. What kind of boost might I be running now? Even when I hook it up I know 20psi stock setting wont clear up the black smoke, it takes closer to 30 psi to run clean at WOT. How do I set it for say 35psi?

Thanks for any help.

Also ran out a gallon of oil in my driveway cuz I forgot to slide the rubber hose back on the turbo return. Well I got my partial oil change dont.

 

Without the WG hooked up you could be getting alot of boost. The Wg won't open unless the exhaust pressure overcomes the spring in the actuator. I ran with it unhooked for a couple months, never had it open from ex. pressure. I still have factory exhaust, w/o muffler, so the backpressure in the DP is probably high. This makes it harder to open the WG because of the pressure differential, or lack there of. With the stock H1C 18cm I could hit about 40psi. Swapping to the 12, without WG, I had lots of boost. I chickened out at 45, I think it would make 50 if it didn't explode first. I would reccomend a manual boost controller. Leave the WG alone and put the MBC inline to it. Makes changing boost as easy as turning a screw. Otherwise you have to pull the actuator off the "flapper" and shorten it to increase boost. Sounds easy, but is a PITA.

 

the wg rod was no conected when i got it, it was about 3/8" from fitting onto the flapper. I used my air comperssor to push the rod out enough to connect it back. What kind of manual boost controler are you refering to?

With the actuator already shortened a good bit it could already be set to open at 35ish psi? I guess I just need to hook it up and see where it opens.

 

Here is one: http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html

It is pretty easy to do.
I am not sure how high you can set the factory actuator. Be careful using an air compressor! Don't ask how I know. The idea is to set the rod so that the WG is just opening at your desired psi. The MBC keeps the pressure away from the WG until it reaches a pre-set level. Then it opens applying pressure to the WG. As long as the WG is set lower than the MBC, the MBC determines the boost pressure.

 

Just us this to set it at what you want.......


This and a compressor is all you need.
set the regulator to 35 psi then keep adj it untill 35 psi alow you to just be able to slide the rod over the waste gate lever................... put your C clip on and you should be close!

Yes this is much easier with the turbo off of the truck

 

Thats a great idea, my compressor has two regulators and gauges on it. I can hook it up to the actuator and slowly increase the pressure till it opens. Why didnt I think of that.

 

Thanks CaptionChrysler, Had to add that to my book mark

Yeah figured that one out after i got rid of the vacuum? gauge idea

Flash.