Jim Lane

I have my supply of welding cable from 4-gauge, 2-gauge, 1/0-gauge, 2/0-gauge and 4/0-gauge along with a good assortment of lugs like these and adhesive lined shrink tubing.

http://www.noco-usa.com/pdf/Noco-Cat...minal&Lugs.pdf

And a pair of bench mount crimpers on like on page 3

http://www.noco-usa.com/pdf/Noco-Catalog-Tools.pdf

And I make all of my own cables.

What would cost $60.00 plus dollars from the dealer I can put together myself for about $20.00 if I had to go out and purchase the wire and lugs and it would be a much better quality.

http://www.noco-usa.com/


Jim

grandpa ralph

Once again,

Thank You All so much.

Battery cables are in my top 5 on the reliability list. The only time the truck didn't start was after I took the cable off and like Big Ragu said, all manner of things have been used to pry these off in the past. My negative end is actually cracked----only a matter of time.


BearKiller: could you post a link for those copper ends?

BearKiller

They are just plain old common copper ring-terminals, available at NAPA, Walmart, and any hardware.

wannadiesel

1/0 is actually too small. The factory cables are 2/0.

randyswelding

ok thats good i got 2/0 cable and my dang pipe clamp that finally came in.

keith1992

I dont like crimp ends. I like the ones with the solder in them that you heat up and shove the cable into, then after it cools slide some heavy duty shrink sleve up over the joint and snug that down. Makes about the best connection I have ever seen.

2/0 is good enough even on a 10-15ft run by the time I route it around and stuff?

loch

Most heavy equipment shops can make any cable you need, its a lot cheaper from them as well. If I went the solder route I would use silver solder its a lot stronger and has a higher melp point.

BearKiller

The secret to a good long-lasting electrical crimp is to saturate the strands with Vaseline and fill the lug with it, crimp, then heat-shrink three layers.

Solder is okay until it breaks, then you have an arcing connection.

On big stuff, I prefer a good crimped connection.

Little stuff, 8AWG and smaller, I crimp and solder.

loch

Killer it breaking was the reason for silver solder, but im still with you, i prefer crimp connectors as well, plus if one does fail its fixable without a headache.

keith1992

Vasoline, eh? What does that do for the connection, other than make it gooey? There some similarities between bulb grease?

torquefan

I like to use the OEM cables. I'm pretty fussy about how my batteries and cables look. My original cables and hold-downs still look new, but when the time comes, they'll be replaced with OEM, if they aren't obsolete by then.

loch

the vasiline does two things, allows for better crimp plus keeps corrosion out.

Jim Lane

Whoever was asking about the ring terminals for the stud terminals they are on page #3

http://www.noco-usa.com/pdf/Noco-Cat...minal&Lugs.pdf

On the issue of crimping on a terminal, there is a big difference in the connections between using a Hammer Style Crimper where you smack the punch with a sledge and the kind of crimper like I have.

On Page #3.
http://www.noco-usa.com/pdf/Noco-Catalog-Tools.pdf

The bench mount uses a diamond shape die and it compresses the lug from all 4 sides exerting thousands of pounds of force, the lug and the strands of cable almost become one.

I have cut a lug open with a saw and the strands are so compressed they cannot be separated.

While the simple Hammer Style Crimper merely punches the terminal in one place to collapse it onto the strand bundle.

Yes the pre filled lugs are nice and make a good connection and I have used them but I do not like them because the solder will wick up the strand bundle and make it not as flexible, however this is not a problem on a cable that is not going to move.

See their opinion on soldering lugs:
http://www.custombatterycables.com/faqs.htm

Looks like a good supplier or lugs, however I have never purchased anything from them.

http://bdbatteries.com/lugs.php

This is something like the kit I have only his is smaller and mine is bench mount.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvl1aWrkbI0

I think that Putting Vaseline on your cable before you insert it into the lug I think would cause resistance problems however smearing it on the outside of the lug and post will slow down the corrosion.
The reason a post corrodes is when the seal on the post is compromised allowing the acid to escape as the battery gasses.

Smearing Dielectric Grease or Bulb Grease on the wire first is a bad idea.

Dielectric Grease is Non Conductive and is an insulator and is used to prevent current from flowing, not help it.

I would rather use some NOALOX or Penetrox you could get from any electrical supply house.
You can get NOALOX at Home Depot in a small squeeze bottle.

http://sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm

I am not saying things are right or wrong but speaking from over 40 years of working experience in the electrical, electronics and mechanical field this is what I have found works best and yes I am still learning new thing.
Jim

fireman1073

noalox for sure. best product for corrosion protection

Steve

BearKiller

I started saturating connections with Vaseline several years ago when I read an electrical article in a SaltWater Marine magazine and saw the "before and after" comparisons of various crimp-connections.

After five years in saltwater use, the strands in every one of the Vaseline-treated connections were clean as new; whereas the un-treated connections, and those treated with various other stuff, were all green and corroded.

I lately saw a similar article somewhere on "the net" and will post it if I can find it.