spoolinNpullin

Has anyone put a chevy self exciting self regulating 1 wire alt. on a cummins before.

i'm new to cummins, but far from new to jerry rigged auto mecahnics

was seeing if anyone has done this to any of ther dodges, i'm getting ready to TRY the conversion, just seeing if anyone has already has. I searched the forum, but have not come up with anyone doing that mod.


thanks, Justin
p.s simpler is better, 90 cummins non-I/C

G1625S

Not too sure on the swap...someone will chime in though, I'm sure. I gotta ask, why the swap?


BTW---Welcome to DTR!! we need a few more cold air challenged trucks like mine (non i/c) floating around in here

greg

spoolinNpullin

well my alt's fried, or volt reg fried.

surging on amps.

I like simple. Gm is simple.
I like cheap. Gm is cheap

jsut figure ger rid of a few less wires i have to worry bout corroding, and giving me probs.

yea first cummins myself, moved over from powerstroke.

thanks for the welcome, also the 3 spd autos have locking torque converters?
anyone have a wirign diagram for locking them up. i liek having downhill engine braking.

G1625S

Well, there's no arguing that GM stuff is usually cheaper and easier to get than Dodge stuff. Still, a Voltage regualtor is cheap and if that's the proble, it's just a bolt in affair. Is the dash gauge surging, or are you seeing the surge on a multi-meter? A bad ground at the regulator on, like, every chrysler product ever, will usually cause the pulse or 'heartbeat' on the gauge and lights etc. As for the 1-wire, if it's based on the Delco 10si, it may not have the **** to keep the school bus battery under your hood charged--especially when the grid heaters are cycling. There are some different options---check out the first gen tech facts. No lockup converter, sorry. Even with a lockup converter or standard tranny, diesels don't have much in the way of engine braking without the aid of (here it comes) an engine brake, aka Jake (none available for the 5.9 Cummins) or an exhaust brake. For now, be sure that your service brakes are top notch.

greg

59FORD

Why do a GM onewire when it's just as easy to use the Denso alt and make
it into a one wire, that's what I did. It's easy and simple install.
These Denso alternators are very tuff.


Installation
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=78691


Photos and part numbers
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t=77730&page=3

Here is all the stuff for a Denso onewire setup.

Jim Lane

I do not think you are going to gain much by installing a Delcotron SI, even in the large frame you will not put out enough amps to keep your batteries charged.
I had a 6.2 Chevy and I went through quite a few alternators also I used to burn the belts off the alternator when I was charging the dual batteries.
The ND on the dodges are 120 amp units and I think they are only marginally acceptable.
I used to have a problem keeping 3 batteries charged while running an inverter that can draw up to 100 amps.
I cured the problem by dumping the ND and installing a Leece Neville 110-555 alternator onto my Cummins. It is a 140-amp alternator, single wire excite and will idle @85 amps and crank out 140 amps all daylong and not overheat.
Check out the pictures in my gallery.
Jim

Begle1

No kidding...
We need some more trucks without air conditioning too!
(Cold air challenged in both regards!)

Robert in W. Mi

I'm not sure why you had this problem, as i now have two 6.2's besides my Dodge and i've never had this problem. I've had two other 6.2's in the past and didn't have the problem with those either...

Perhaps you had a lot more access. running than i do? But, i have a Warn 12,000 winch on one of them and i've done a LOT of winching and not fried my alt...

I've also in the past converted one of my diesel tractors to a GM alt. with good results...

Robert

92DIESEL

I don't have air conditioning that works.... does that count

andyr354

Most 10si alts are rated at a max of 78A, some are as low at 60A.

There are some aftermarket rewound ones in summit and jegs that put out more, but are just as expensive as the Denso on the truck now.

ChrisLib

I`m with Jim Lane on this one, my 86 gasser has a Leece 7726JA alt, rated for 180A IIRC, I don`t care HOW much elec stuff is running it simply charges at 14.2 volts, no if ands or buts, there`s a coupla pics of it here.
http://ramchargercentral.com/index.p...owtoshow;id=20
I`d like to do a Leece swap into my CTD but $$ is kinda tight now....that and the OE unit is still working. As far as using a Delco, I have a friend who`s got an older ferd F250 (a real Highboy..nice truck actually), any how his alt took a dump, the wiring was fubar etc. So he put in a 200A delco (spec`ed out for a caddy). It was a pretty easy swap but it just doesn`t put out good power at low rpm`s wich in the CTD world is very important.

csramsey640

Chalk me up for both of those. 1991 non/ic, have A/C but it doesnt work, score one for the team

spoolinNpullin

Went With 59Ford's Internal Regulator Mod,

Works Like a Dream, NO more pulsatign lights, 13.9 volts charging
will do to any other dodge i own.

thanks 59ford.

Justin.

mikmaze

chris lib, as for not puttin out good power at low rpm a drive pully swap on that 200 amp unit sure seems the way to go, smaller diameter would spin faster but not out of range considdering how fast it would spin in a caddy gasser.

o well I gotta go, anybody else get optical migraines?? right about now I can see but reading is extremely difficult . impossible to see whole words can only make out 1 letter at a time this just blows.......

59FORD

Spoolin

Glad to hear it worked for you also

I spent weeks trying to stop the pulsing without any luck.


This is the fastest and best $20 fix-it I have found.

59