Gm 1 wire self regulating alternator on cummins?
10-15-2005, 09:15 AM
#16
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East Coast Alternator makes a 200 amp 1 wire I believe. They also have a conversion kit to make regulator alternators into 1 wire units for about 35.00. I have one of their Untra-minis on my 4 cyl drag car, they do nice work.
09-03-2010, 04:53 PM
#17
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Why do a GM onewire when it's just as easy to use the Denso alt and make
it into a one wire, that's what I did. It's easy and simple install.
These Denso alternators are very tuff.
Installation
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=78691
Photos and part numbers
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t=77730&page=3
Here is all the stuff for a Denso onewire setup.
it into a one wire, that's what I did. It's easy and simple install.
These Denso alternators are very tuff.
Installation
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=78691
Photos and part numbers
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t=77730&page=3
Here is all the stuff for a Denso onewire setup.
09-04-2010, 08:43 AM
#18
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Why the obsession withe inferior one wire technology??
Yes we need better charging systems, but, one wire is not it.
Sensing voltage at the alternator does not take into account voltage drop in the charging wire and often will leave your batteries undercharged. Please use a system with remote voltage sensing if you are going to upgrade.
BTW.. . fixing the engine to body grounds stopped the pulsing on mine.
Yes we need better charging systems, but, one wire is not it.
Sensing voltage at the alternator does not take into account voltage drop in the charging wire and often will leave your batteries undercharged. Please use a system with remote voltage sensing if you are going to upgrade.
BTW.. . fixing the engine to body grounds stopped the pulsing on mine.
09-05-2010, 06:16 AM
#19
Administrator
Why the obsession withe inferior one wire technology??
Yes we need better charging systems, but, one wire is not it.
Sensing voltage at the alternator does not take into account voltage drop in the charging wire and often will leave your batteries undercharged. Please use a system with remote voltage sensing if you are going to upgrade.
BTW.. . fixing the engine to body grounds stopped the pulsing on mine.
Yes we need better charging systems, but, one wire is not it.
Sensing voltage at the alternator does not take into account voltage drop in the charging wire and often will leave your batteries undercharged. Please use a system with remote voltage sensing if you are going to upgrade.
BTW.. . fixing the engine to body grounds stopped the pulsing on mine.
You can install a Brushless J-Mount with remote sensing if you wanted a trick system.
http://www.elreg.com/files/PG1017e_B...natorSPIFF.pdf
Jim
09-05-2010, 12:40 PM
#20
Registered User
As highly acclaimed as they are, and supposedly rated at 120-amps, the ND alternators that come standard on these trucks seem to be highly problematic and awfully expensive to fix or replace.
I can buy many different brands of proven alternators for what a replacement set of brushes or rectifier gizmo for the ND will cost.
I currently have several shiny new Leece-Neville 110-555s, plus all the reworked brackets, pulleys, and such, laying under my bench, waiting on time and a few more necessities to get them mounted.
In the mean-time, my old faithful 90-amp 1st Generation Ford alternator, that came new on the 1985 original I-H engine that used to be in my truck, and was converted onto the Cummins that now resides there, still has no problem keeping the voltage gauge a little above 14-volts with my many many marker-lights, numerous auxilliary lights, windshield-wipers, A/C, three Group-31s, etc., etc.; I hope that I am not dis-appointed when the Leece-Nevilles can't keep up with that old soldier.
I can buy many different brands of proven alternators for what a replacement set of brushes or rectifier gizmo for the ND will cost.
I currently have several shiny new Leece-Neville 110-555s, plus all the reworked brackets, pulleys, and such, laying under my bench, waiting on time and a few more necessities to get them mounted.
In the mean-time, my old faithful 90-amp 1st Generation Ford alternator, that came new on the 1985 original I-H engine that used to be in my truck, and was converted onto the Cummins that now resides there, still has no problem keeping the voltage gauge a little above 14-volts with my many many marker-lights, numerous auxilliary lights, windshield-wipers, A/C, three Group-31s, etc., etc.; I hope that I am not dis-appointed when the Leece-Nevilles can't keep up with that old soldier.
09-05-2010, 01:50 PM
#21
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I'm sick of fighting my voltage reg. Usually it's over charging, (16+ volts) unless I turn the blower fan on high. 12000 mi. Since the swap, and just like a woman it gets it's time of the month where it doesn't charge, and needs to be jump started. After 2 or 3 days of jump starting it's good for another month. Btw new alternator and regulator 2 months ago, good grounds and regulator is wired properly.
09-05-2010, 03:06 PM
#22
Registered User
I'm sick of fighting my voltage reg. Usually it's over charging, (16+ volts) unless I turn the blower fan on high. 12000 mi. Since the swap, and just like a woman it gets it's time of the month where it doesn't charge, and needs to be jump started. After 2 or 3 days of jump starting it's good for another month. Btw new alternator and regulator 2 months ago, good grounds and regulator is wired properly.
Your engine couldn't care less what alternator is mounted on it, nor even if no alternator was on it at all.
Fabrication or alteration of the alternator bracket is a simple matter with the only really important consideration being that the belt-pulley is in alignment.
Whether a GM "one-wire" or a real no-nonsense Leece-Neville, either is a really simple retrofit and a big improvement over the factory system.
All the problems with a "one-wire" alternator are eliminated by using a big enough charge wire, such that little, if any, voltage is lost between the alternator and the rest of the system.
Where most voltage sensing problems with one-wire units occur is when smallish 10- or 12-AWG wire is used as the charge wire and is routed quite some distance before reaching the HOT junction.
There are at least two really lengthy threads around here that discuss installing a Leece-Neville; one started by myself, the other by JIM LANE.
09-26-2010, 02:03 PM
#23
I don't think I'll go with a GM. Leece-Neville being a bigger form will probably not be my choice. In my area, I can pick up these 140A bosch alternators (2 wires- one switched, plus the biggy) for about $50. $25 for the bolt on brush pack and throw a new usa made brg in the rear for $10. I'm running them in my other cars- they came out of 91-99 S-classes(I think). Seem to be good till the armature wears out(300-350,000 miles), brushes every 125-150k. The 2 ball bearings are common sizes- I put these fancy electric motor grade ones in..SKF?
Michael
Michael
10-20-2018, 10:00 PM
#24
Registered User
I do not think you are going to gain much by installing a Delcotron SI, even in the large frame you will not put out enough amps to keep your batteries charged.
I had a 6.2 Chevy and I went through quite a few alternators also I used to burn the belts off the alternator when I was charging the dual batteries.
The ND on the dodges are 120 amp units and I think they are only marginally acceptable.
I used to have a problem keeping 3 batteries charged while running an inverter that can draw up to 100 amps.
I cured the problem by dumping the ND and installing a Leece Neville 110-555 alternator onto my Cummins. It is a 140-amp alternator, single wire excite and will idle @85 amps and crank out 140 amps all daylong and not overheat.
Check out the pictures in my gallery.
Jim
I had a 6.2 Chevy and I went through quite a few alternators also I used to burn the belts off the alternator when I was charging the dual batteries.
The ND on the dodges are 120 amp units and I think they are only marginally acceptable.
I used to have a problem keeping 3 batteries charged while running an inverter that can draw up to 100 amps.
I cured the problem by dumping the ND and installing a Leece Neville 110-555 alternator onto my Cummins. It is a 140-amp alternator, single wire excite and will idle @85 amps and crank out 140 amps all daylong and not overheat.
Check out the pictures in my gallery.
Jim
10-21-2018, 09:10 AM
#25
Registered User
The true one wire would be great . A converted one wire sometimes isn’t converted correctly . On most of the converted pieces you have to rev up the engine to get the Alt to start a charge . I have one on my 32 that I converted , it doesn’t get driven much and it works fine . Revin up the gasser in a 32 is a bit fun anyway . Using an incorrect converted unit on a Diesel isn’t so good to have to Rev up . I have a one wire “ correct one wire “ on my truck . It is a 12 SI 90 amp unit with a specific tach terminal for a Diesel also . It works great and has worked great for many years . It’s easiky rebuildable and parts can be had anywhere . This unit was from a farm tractor , 110 HP Turbo Diesel IH tractor with a Cummins engine . Yes it came with a 6BT from the factory . It was only a 2 year venture between IH and Cummins , until IH got their own Diesel up and installed . These can be had at any large “ Starter , Alternator Shop “ not the chain stores . If you have trouble locating on or want one J&N Auto Electric , Cinti . Oh . will box one up and send it out to you ASAP . I have never touched a Denso so far they maybe a more modern answer , I just can’t say yes or no .
10-21-2018, 09:02 PM
#26
Administrator
Yes,
The 110-555JHO is a one wire alternator,
The alternator is isolated so there is no electrical connections to the case, you need to provide a ground and a POSitive battery feed the remaining 3 terminals are the 3-phase stator output.
These can be used for connecting tachometers external rectifier (diode) assemblies or someday hopefully a dynamic inverter.
Jim
The 110-555JHO is a one wire alternator,
The alternator is isolated so there is no electrical connections to the case, you need to provide a ground and a POSitive battery feed the remaining 3 terminals are the 3-phase stator output.
These can be used for connecting tachometers external rectifier (diode) assemblies or someday hopefully a dynamic inverter.
Jim
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