I need some input on what options I have. As I explained in my post the other night, after only 5150 miles, my Getrag has started leaking between the case and the rear housing. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=114004&page=2
Apparently my sealer didn't seal.

The question is - is it possible to reseal the rear cover w/o removing the transmission? Alternatively, can you recommend an external sealer to stop it from leaking w/o having to remove the rear cover?

I'll be leaving Santa Fe for a 700 mile tow home on Monday and am looking for options.

Thanks in advance

 

Would it be possible to relieve strain/weight from the union that is leaking, loosen the bolts without removing them, thus making a gap, and squirt some RTV into the gap, then tighten eveything back up ??

In the case of the bolts maybe being too short to permit this, possibly longer bolts could be swapped in, one at a time, then the gap made, RTV applied, and the original bolts re-installed, pulling everything back together.

Use the above information at your own risk, taking into account that the source of said information sometimes makes three days work out of a five minute job.


Another less intrusive possibility is, wire-brush and solvent-clean the offending area.

Then, using plumber's epoxy putty, Quik Steel, or the like, apply it over the leaking area, making sure that it bridges the joint.

This is real good stuff and no leak will get past it.

If you are not familiar with it, it comes in a cigar-like plastic tube, and is a two-colored stick of two-part epoxy.

You slice off a piece and knead it like Play Doh.

When it starts warming up, you stick it on.

 

Thanks BK. I had wondered about backing the bolts off and injecting RTV into the gap but wasn't sure if it was doable in this case since that is where the preload shims are located. I'm curious if anyone has successfully done this.

A JB Weld/QuikSteel patch was what I was thinking about to get me home. I already tried a butyl rubber compound and it didn't handle the heat.

I'll see what other responses before I try something this evening.

 

One other option, if it is leaking pretty freely, is to drain the fluid and mix the entire amount, corrected for what has leaked out and over-fill, with an equal amount of STP, or a store-brand equivalent.

Pour half of this mixture back in the Getrag and use the remaining half replacing what leaks out on the way back home.

Normal fluid for the Getrag, be it synthetic or whatever, is about as thick as water.

The addition of the STP will really thicken it and be slower to leak.

When you get back home, then you can properly fix the problem and replace the STP mixture with the proper stuff.

 

I have done this before (on a auto pan) depending on how bad it does leak. I have clean the area up with break cleaner very good and then just put rtv ont he outside ont he seal/crack or whatever and let it sit up and it holds up for a while. It held for about two months on the truck.