Gear vendors or 47RH swap?
Gear vendors or 47RH swap?
What would be the pros and cons of each choice?
For the record, I am attempting to build a truck that tows up to 10,000 lbs well. As it sits right now, it tows 5,000 lbs (+/-) very well.
47RH pros: lock up convertor, +50 horsepower, lower operating temps, could sell 46RH setup fairly easily.
47RH cons: install requires modification, lock up control seems to be hit and miss (from what I have read on here), initial cost of trans, convertor, parts, etc
For the record, I am attempting to build a truck that tows up to 10,000 lbs well. As it sits right now, it tows 5,000 lbs (+/-) very well.
47RH pros: lock up convertor, +50 horsepower, lower operating temps, could sell 46RH setup fairly easily.
47RH cons: install requires modification, lock up control seems to be hit and miss (from what I have read on here), initial cost of trans, convertor, parts, etc
Any particular reason you want to keep it an automatic? If you're going to go through the hassle to swap a different tranny, why not swap in an NV4500?
Out of your two choices though, I'd go the 47rh route. Lockup is very nice, and you can get a tranny to take the abuse you want to throw at it for fairly cheap.
Out of your two choices though, I'd go the 47rh route. Lockup is very nice, and you can get a tranny to take the abuse you want to throw at it for fairly cheap.
towing 10,000lbs without a lockup trans is going to be inefficient. the gear vendors is not going to help at all when towing especially if your towing 10k. you pretty much have pros and cons already.
the biggest pain in the butt thing with the conversion is the linkage for the gear selector and making an adapter for the 4x4 gear selector. if your trans lines are rusty then they can be a pain. I would say overall your not going to spend anymore the 5hrs doing things related to the conversion.
the biggest pain in the butt thing with the conversion is the linkage for the gear selector and making an adapter for the 4x4 gear selector. if your trans lines are rusty then they can be a pain. I would say overall your not going to spend anymore the 5hrs doing things related to the conversion.
the linkage with my 47rh was easy. just re used it.
but it a huge cost.
cost me $1200 bucks for a good used trans and all the swap parts.
you have to get the driveshaft shortened because it doesnt line up with the steady bearing mount and if you dont your in danger of bottoming the splines and taking an output out.
then update the starter to second gen $$$ i had one.
and while your in there might as well do the rear seal $100.
and torque converter $1300
and rebuild the tranny $4000
custom valvebody to control lock up $500
see what i mean.
if your not chasing top HP.
i would just put in a good TCS converter and have the tranny rebuild to factory specs. add a deep sump pan and a cooler with a fan under the box. it will tow 10000lbs
but it a huge cost.
cost me $1200 bucks for a good used trans and all the swap parts.
you have to get the driveshaft shortened because it doesnt line up with the steady bearing mount and if you dont your in danger of bottoming the splines and taking an output out.
then update the starter to second gen $$$ i had one.
and while your in there might as well do the rear seal $100.
and torque converter $1300
and rebuild the tranny $4000
custom valvebody to control lock up $500
see what i mean.
if your not chasing top HP.
i would just put in a good TCS converter and have the tranny rebuild to factory specs. add a deep sump pan and a cooler with a fan under the box. it will tow 10000lbs
Standard cab trucks don't have a carrier bearing and the drive shaft works fine been running mine for 3 years. The key to doing it some what cheap is finding the someone parting out a second gen and getting the parts as a Package for cheap.
I used some flat stock to move the carrier bearing mounting holes back, that way I could retain the stock short shaft, I didn't shorten my driveshaft until I installed a dana 80.
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It seems we have forgotten the Gear vendors is a "gear splitter" Many is the time I have split 2nd gear pulling a hill where 3rd was too high, and 2nd was too low. I agree, a lockup converter would be great, but there are certain times a gear vendors is a home run!
Now, anyone know how to pot a lock up converter in a 3 speed torqueflite? 727 of course.
Now, anyone know how to pot a lock up converter in a 3 speed torqueflite? 727 of course.
My truck started with the Getrag/gear vendors, then went to an nv5600/gear vendors, to just the nv5600, to the 47rh. The 5600 swap(no GV) is the way to go for towing hands down(or at least a 6 speed manual) . First gear with the auto is awfully high, but once you get a load moving it is a dream with manual control of lock up and OD. I've never had a problem with lock up control either(it's just a dimmer switch o the floor). Once moving in 1st, shift to second, then lock, then unlock and shift to 3rd, then lock, then unlock and shift to OD and either run it locked or unlocked depending on speed and grade. Unloaded is a no brainer. Put it in drive and go till you get into od and then lock it if speed allows. A built one with shafts and triple disc tc is pricey though. The higher your power level, the nicer the auto.
Found my 2nd gen parts for my swap right here on this forum from another member, just posted up in the wanted section.
I did buy a built 47RH from Garmon's Diesel Perf. and I just paid the 500.00 core so I wouldn't have to source a 2nd gen 47RH from a 94-95 truck.
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