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Fusible Link Abatement

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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 10:34 AM
  #16  
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From: PNW
I just got done getting rid of my fuseable links also....

I removed all the fusable links and replaced them with actual fuses. I ended up using (1) 125 Amp AMG fuse and fuse holder for the alternator one which was a 10 ga Fuseable link. Then for the smaller 20 Ga (15A fuse) and 22Ga (10A fuse) fuseable links I found some nice 6 spade fuse holders. I actually ended up using two of those fuse holders and the extra slots are/will be used to power my CB, Trailer Brake Controller, Back-up light relay and Head light relays.



After looking over this post again, I now realize that my truck was already missing the middle fuseable link which looks like 16 or 18 gauge. I just assumed it was a 20 ga link, So I might need to bump up one of my fuses to match that higher rating.

Can someone tell me what the middle gray wire says on it?
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:17 AM
  #17  
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Nice work. Did you split up some of those power feeds to be able to use the small fuses?
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:43 AM
  #18  
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From: PNW
Here is my fuse panel layout

------------------------------------------------------------------
Backup lights-25A | Low Beams-15A || 22Ga link-15A | 20Ga link-10A
------------------------------------------------------------------
Trailer Brake.??A | Hi. Beams-15A || 22Ga link-15A | 20Ga link-10A
------------------------------------------------------------------
CB Radio......??A | 22Ga link-15A || 22Ga link-15A | 20Ga link-10A
------------------------------------------------------------------


You can see the new 125A alternator fuse in the left of the above picture under the hood spring. I still need to hard mount the fuse holder.

Then I had a electrical engineer spec out 7-8 Amps is what a 22 Ga Fuseable link can handle, so I used 10A fuses. Those are the ones with white wires and red fuses. I did however split off one of the smaller wires from the larger fuseable links and give it a seperate 10A fuse

The a electrical engineer spec out 11-12 Amps is what a 20 Ga Fuseable link can handle, so I used 15A fuses. Those are the ones with red wires and blue fuses.

But like I said - I think I should probably up one of my fuses for that larger 16 or 18 ga fuseable link.....

Oh and I also unwrapped ALL of the factory wiring harness on teh driver side fender to make it clean looking. and in doing this I found a second 22GA fuseable link. is probably way it looks like I have so many. then I rewrapped everything and secured it back to the fender well.

I would rather have the electrical circiuts sperated out and more fuses and with these single input and 6-way output spade fuse holders, it makes for a fairly clean look. BTW I got them at Knetchs for like $6 each I think.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 12:13 PM
  #19  
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Nice job Rick!!!! You should do a start to finish write-up on your job for the stickey since this is gonna be somethign a lot of us will probably copy...
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 12:38 PM
  #20  
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Interesting. The factory service manual showed much higher ratings for those fusible links, which is why I went with Maxi fuses, which were hard to find nice inexpensive fuse blocks for.

Sometime this summer I am going to take the whole thing apart again and redo it, and if I can get away with smaller fuses, that will make it MUCH cheaper and easier to do.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 02:53 PM
  #21  
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From: PNW
The only one that I feel you need a large heavy duty fuse for is the alternator one IMO.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 03:01 PM
  #22  
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how can a 25a 15a and 15a fuse be supported by 1 10a fuse? i replaced mine with agu fuses AFTER having tried what you did. i had to remeber to do things like turn the blower off before using my power winters... can't remeber what is on each block from each fuse link but i couldn't get a 30a to hold any of them without blowing! the only small fuse i still have on there is going to the 22ga wire you talked about.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 03:47 PM
  #23  
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From: PNW
how can a 25a 15a and 15a fuse be supported by 1 10a fuse?
I'm not sure what your asking 'Micaiahfied'.





This is not my picture, but is shows what I'm talking about:


I just stripped ALL the tape off the whole harness so I could see what was going on. Basically what I found was the large black main power wire going into the molded rubber piece had:

(1) small Red wire coming out and going to a relay on the fender. This had no fuseable link in it. So I ran it directly to the hot terminal.

(1) large Green 10 gauge fuseable link. that lead to the main lead for the alternator. Since the truck has a 120A alternator (I got that info from Napa) I installed (1) 125 Amp AMG fuse and Fuse holder.

(3) medium Orange 20 gauge fuseable links. some of these led to multiple wire connections, others only lead to a single wire. I also found that ones of these connections feed another white 22 gauge fuseable link. Since I had the room I seperated this out, I ended up with (3) 15 Amp Spade Fuses and (2) 10 Amp spade fuses.

(1) small White 22 gauge fuseable link which I believe led to several wires. I ended replacing that with (1) 10 Amp spade fuse.

The other one (which was already missing on my truck) was that Gray 16 or 18 gauge fuseable link. Not knowing what size this was I used (1) 15 Amp spade fuse.



So that means I ended up with (7) spade fuses and (1)AMG fuse. the other fuses you see pictured are the high and low beam relay fuses and the back-up light relay fuse. I also have two open slots which I plan to use for my CB and Trailer Brake Contorller power leads.

I hope that makes more sense.... So far I haven't blown a fuse but I've only driver 20 mile.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 05:02 PM
  #24  
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if you look at the wiring diagram in the FSM, it shows these FLs feeding into multiple fuses in the factory fuse panel, which are each from 10-20 amps. I think that is what Micaiahfied is talking about. When I looked at that, I ended up going to the maxi fuses from 20-60 Amps, and then the big honking 125 Amp one for the alternator.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #25  
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Very nice, it should work out well. It's been added to the sticky. Be sure to let me know if the truck burns to the ground so I can take it out.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 05:35 PM
  #26  
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From: PNW
Originally Posted by woodrat
if you look at the wiring diagram in the FSM, it shows these FLs feeding into multiple fuses in the factory fuse panel, which are each from 10-20 amps.
I didn't look at that part.... I see no reason to install any larger fuse than I abosulely have to, so I judged what I needed based on the size of the fuseable link and not teh number or size of fuses Dodge had installed after the fuseable link. Maybe I should of, but I didn't.....
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 05:36 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by wannadiesel
Be sure to let me know if the truck burns to the ground so I can take it out.
Will do...
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 05:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 4RnrRick
I didn't look at that part.... I see no reason to install any larger fuse than I abosulely have to, so I judged what I needed based on the size of the fuseable link and not teh number or size of fuses Dodge had installed after the fuseable link. Maybe I should of, but I didn't.....
I think your reasoning is sound, leave it as is.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 08:00 PM
  #29  
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Wink Go To The Junk Yard

A good cheap source for Maxi-Fuse holders is under the hood of early 90s and later Ford trucks, among some other various vehicles.

I intend to procure one that has both maxi and standard fuses to install under the hood and eliminate the truck-burner under the dash.

Most have a nice protective cover.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 08:19 PM
  #30  
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Yeah, I need to get to the city and hit the wrecking yards soon. I'm getting quite a list of stuff that I need to get. There's not much in the way of good yards anywhere near me though, so I usually need to make a day of it and go all the way to Portland.
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