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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
The peak circuit (alternator) current is 120 amps nominal. A 120 amp fuse is likely to blow periodically just because it runs near it's limit too often. Typical design allows 20% - 30% buffer for max current.
Similar to a circuit breaker in my square d service panel. My late brother I informed me, when I was running new circuits in my home, that I should only put enough duplexes On a circuit to 80 % or less of the rating of the breaker. This would prevent inadvertent breaker trips...under normal usage
The peak circuit (alternator) current is 120 amps nominal. A 120 amp fuse is likely to blow periodically just because it runs near it's limit too often. Typical design allows 20% - 30% buffer for max current.
Does this mean that if my alternator is a 200 amp'er, I'd need about a 250 breaker/fuse? Thanks again
Does this mean that if my alternator is a 200 amp'er, I'd need about a 250 breaker/fuse? Thanks again
Yes
You also need to upgrade the power lead to the alternator to 1/0 or better. 6 g (stock) will drop 0.4v. dissipating 80 watts in heat. (getting pretty warm) 1/0 will drop 0.1V, dissipating 20w in heat.
The charts will often tell you that 6g is OK, but I disagree strongly with them.
It would help to put a heavy ground strap on the alternator also.
Been a few years, but I figured I'd update from today.
My power windows failed a few weeks ago, and I've been too busy to figure out what happened. Finally got around to it, and discovered that the china crap fuse holders I bought off of slammazon back in 2014 turned to crap with the presence of aluminum tipped fuses in their copper sockets. So, after lots of fussing, pulling the window motors out to inspect their brushes, cleaning out the cases, and testing them, I realized it's not the 30 year old motors that are bad, but the 9 year old crap from chinatown that failed, and caused my windows to stop working.
Good time to clean out the inside of the doors, anyway.
Today, RIpped out the old failed fuse holders, and in search for new ones. Will rewire and update if I ever find anything of quality, or a new fuse panel or something to take place of the mess on the ground.
. 2014 installed Fuse holders Window motor brush cleanout crummy fuse panel broken window switch trim that snaps after 30 years original motors Dead fuse olders Rats nest unearthed.
I use marine grade fuse boxes etc a lot now. Can't remember which company(s).
When I first added electrical components, I used an add-on fuse block a lot of folks here recommended at the time (early 2000's). It still works just fine. Painless Performance is the name and I'd use them again.
That is the reason why I recommended you try to put power to the window motors from a jumper pack or battery, when this problem started.
#1 it would get the window up so you didn't have to worry about the weather blowing into the truck with the window stuck down.
#2 to see if the motor was dead, or if the wiring was janky.
I see the square tubing door support welded into your drivers door. That is a good mod. to make the door more solid.
Been a few years, since I have done that......Reminds me I should do that while I have the door panels off on my '78 Ramcharger build.
That is the reason why I recommended you try to put power to the window motors from a jumper pack or battery, when this problem started.
#1 it would get the window up so you didn't have to worry about the weather blowing into the truck with the window stuck down.
#2 to see if the motor was dead, or if the wiring was janky.
I see the square tubing door support welded into your drivers door. That is a good mod. to make the door more solid.
Been a few years, since I have done that......Reminds me I should do that while I have the door panels off on my '78 Ramcharger build.
Yeah, I know but the issue was not a dead window, but an intermittent dead window issue, as i would sit in the truck with the key on for a while, hold the button down or up, and eventually it would work.
I followed your motor testing advice, mostly.
Only,y difference is i removed the 3 mounting bolts and motors, and individually bench tested them with a 12v car battery. Worked ok on the bench, and cleaned out each motor of brush dust was a good way to see how much life left in the motors.
Testing the up and dowm of the glass without a motor confirmed there was no window transmission binding, and i was ablw to lube the tracks, guide wheels, and transmissions before closing up the doors again.
Windows have been up since, and taking the door panels off was a good move, as they were filled with black beauty blasting dust from the body / frame restoration. Was able to lube stuff up as well.
Yeah, the Wheelie-king mod is one of the best things you can do for these trucks.
I still have the fusable links in my truck. Just haven't had any problems with them to fix. One has be replaced by a P.O. though so eventually I'll have to do them. With the price of fuel these days I'm wondering if making a Daily Driver is really worth it though.
I put the new fuse panel in the truck, neatly corrected the wires, using colors and gauge that was the best I could get. Couldn't find Pink #12, but found Pink #14, so the Pink with black #12 (to my power windows) got a tail of black to the panel. Split the heater / blower motor off to a separate fuse all on it's own, vs being bundled with the windows (not my doing), and so far everything works on 15amp and 20 amp fuses (based upon gauge wire) I'll be futzing around with the fuse amp and each feed at some point in the next few days, I hope.
Photos to come later.
Amazing how having the proper power to the window circuit makes those windows fly up and down at the speed of the Enterprise. Two to beam up, Scotty.
