Well, after reading up on the fusable links, the duck foot and what a PITA they are, I decided to take a look at the condition mine are in...

Well, the PI snipped the three orange ones and used a butt crimped connector to reconnect them. the red plastic is melting off of the connectors.

So, what would be the best thing to do...replace the links or convert to fuses?

Thanks!

 

I would convert to fuses that way if you blow 1 it's easy to replace it .

 

I am about to switch to maxi fuses to clean everything up and never have to worry about it.

 

They are overheating because there was a bad connection at the crimp, standard automotive insulated butt connectors will never work, if the crimp is not TIGHT it will create resistance = heat at the joint the connection will loosen, overheat and fail.

I use high temperature bullet connectors used in the HVAC industry copper clad steel makes a tight crimp, they actually require a ratcheting crimper but T&B StaKon pliers will work, on a good crimp the conductors are fused togather in the crimp.
You can get these at any HVAC supplier.

I am actually not a fan of replacing a fuse link with a fuse, I use another replacement fuse link wire of the correct size or a self resetting circuit breaker.

Fuse links are designed to take an overload for an acceptable time and not break the circuit where a fuse would melt and break the circuit immediately, not what you would want to have happen in the fast lane on the interstate.

 

Don't maxi fuses have the same function?

 

Thanks for the info!!

Do I need to remove the duck foot to attach new links? It's only the orange ones that need replacing.

 

I agree with Mr Lane, fuse links are not fast blowing like a fuse. That being said I replaced mine with jcase fuses which from what I have read acts more like a fusible link than a fuse. Most newer vehicles come with them. So far mine has worked great and are easily to change out. I did use a mega fuse for the big alternator wire, you cannot get jcase fuses in that high of an amp rating. Good luck.

 

Did you have to remove the "duck foot" to install the jcase fuses?

 

Yes, I cut mine off, mounted the jcase fuse holders to the firewall, cut off the duck foot thing and the fusible links, ran a new feed from the battery to the jcase holder and connected the factory harnes to the holder. The reason I put the holder on the firewall was so I did not have to splice on a short piece of wire after the fusible links were removed.

 

Ok, cool! Thanks for the info!!!

 

Here's my mess..

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...k-t317257.html

I don't mind the maxi fuses, although they're a little cumbersome, and a bit more difficult to connect than I wished. Since I've put mine in, I've had no issues whatsoever. My headlamps were removed to Jim lane's relays, so the reality is that if one of the fuses go, and I'm on a highway.... oh, well.. my blower motor won't work anymore. .. fuses shouldn't blow anyway if everything is done correctly.... and so far.. mine is.

 

Thanks for that link NJT!!! Most helpful!

 

I have been slowly redesigning a distribution system for my truck also,
I want a way to have each battery on its separate buss and have them so I can also manually disconnect and reconnect to the battery of my choice, this way I can connect any load to any battery if one run down or fails also a master to disconnect from the alternator in case of a runaway charge condition, also thinking about providing a separate ground return back to the distribution box to avoid any floating grounds.

I have to add up all of my circuits but there will probably be around 10 BAT and 10 Switched IGN outputs all protected through ATO fuses.

FYI
If you connect a small LED and resistor across the fuse terminal, it will automatically indicate when the fuse is blown.

If you are in the know, yes this does sound like the start of an aircraft electrical system.

Here is a really nice distribution panel that I have found although I am not crazy about the price, I like the idea of the timed output.

http://www.newmartelecom.com/Power_D...on_System.html

If you want some ideas, check out the electrical system and components used on EMS vehicles.

So far my ideas are drawn on a big piece of cardboard so I can expand it as I get more thoughts.

Jim

 

I snagged a simple underhood box from a Landrover Discovery. It has the larger flb? timed fuses. One is a 100 amp jumper fuse, so if you remove that, it still gives you 5 flb spaces as well as 7 reg blade fuse spaces.

 

Jim, I like your thinking!

Flyboy, where did you find that LandRover box? I really like the look of that.