Fuel Screw position
Fuel Screw position
I bought my truck about 3 months ago now, but when i bought it the previous owner said he had the pump turned up a bit. All that was done was the full fuel screw was turned in. The tampernut is still on there, but my question here is how far would it be turned in if the tampernut was still on there? How far can you go with the tampernut on there? 1 turns? 2 turns? I'm hoping i can rip it off and give it a little more power and not have a runaway on my hands 
thanks
Jeff

thanks
Jeff
I'm not sure how far the screw can be turned with the lock still on it. Just because the lock is still on it does not always mean it was only turned up a little. I know most people do not have the tools, but the lock can be taken off and put back on.
The tin cover has to be destroyed to get at the fuel screw.However my pump rebuilder put a new one on after he set up my pump. If I remember right the locknut can be backed off quite a bit to turn in the screw. You dont want to leave it off ever. If you have so little threads left the nuts gonna fall off its turned up 2-3 turns or more. I wouldent push it any further. Id start lookin for injectors etc. You can also gain a bit with the AFC and fuel pin.
the lock ring on my truck was tacked on and i had to cut it off i could not turn it at all 1 bit the fuel pressure screw can be taken out to cut the lock ring off as long as you dont move the lock nut when you cut it off you will be close going back in then go from that point ....... IF ,you turn it in to far the engine rpms will start climbing on there own till it hits the gov. i set mine using my boost gauge 38psi for mine seems to be the point if i turn more the rpms dont come down right away and also if its out to much the low fuel pressure keeps it from idling ...it will start if you push the accel. down a little ... hope this helps
One thing you can do to get an idea, look at the idle screw, if theres little idle adjustment left you can bet its turned a lot, on mine i turned it 1 1/2 turns but i used up almost all the adjustment there was. not fool proof but if theres a lot of adustment on the idle, might can go a bit more, just keep your runaway tool handy.
I have allot of idle adjustment right now. The only reason i'm wondering if the truck is turned up allot is i put POD injectors in but it doesn't seem to smoke a whole lot( like everyone says). This could also be that the temp outside right now is -11 C. The truck pulls very nice though with the new injectors
. I might just remove the lock and give it a 1/2 turn and see if it starts to runaway on me. When they run away wil it do it right away when i hit the accelerator in neutral?
thanks
Jeff
. I might just remove the lock and give it a 1/2 turn and see if it starts to runaway on me. When they run away wil it do it right away when i hit the accelerator in neutral?thanks
Jeff
What you want to do is rev the engine from under the hood so you can grab the shutdown lever if she keeps climbing. If you rev the engine and it doesn't drop right back to idle, you are on the edge of runaway and you need to back the screw out a little.
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OK sammy we need to talk
If you got PODs and can only see 850 post turbo, then you can crank that screw in
Whenever you turn the fuel screw in, then you will have to turn the idle screw down.
I have my fuel screw in soooo far it feels like it will brake off if I go any farther
If you are worried about it then keep a pair of visegrips on your shutdown shaft and a metal plate ready to throw over your air intake.
I live at 4600 elevation, on a good hard pull with PODs and the fuel screw in I could get near 1200 degrees.
In the summer, weighing 10K I cruise at 700 post turbo with my mods, in the winter I can srill hit 1200 in about 10-15 seconds of hard pulling.
Dont even worry about the pyro till you start seeing over 1000 post turbo
Good luck
If you got PODs and can only see 850 post turbo, then you can crank that screw in
Whenever you turn the fuel screw in, then you will have to turn the idle screw down.
I have my fuel screw in soooo far it feels like it will brake off if I go any farther
If you are worried about it then keep a pair of visegrips on your shutdown shaft and a metal plate ready to throw over your air intake.
I live at 4600 elevation, on a good hard pull with PODs and the fuel screw in I could get near 1200 degrees.
In the summer, weighing 10K I cruise at 700 post turbo with my mods, in the winter I can srill hit 1200 in about 10-15 seconds of hard pulling.
Dont even worry about the pyro till you start seeing over 1000 post turbo
Good luck
I thought that was a little low for POD's. Before the POD's i could only see around 700 F. It's nice to know that i can take it to 1000 F post turbo. I' was kinda leary on that situation because i have the early head with less metal in between the injectors which is more likely to heat crack. I'm kinda delayed here before i can do any more pump mods due to the weather, which means no test driving
. Also does the fuel screw ever move by itself without the tamperproof ring on there? Or is it pretty tight?
Frostie,
With my pump turned up and POD's in, would the HTT upgrade like you have be a good addition? I'm sure it would be enough fuel for it........

Jeff
. Also does the fuel screw ever move by itself without the tamperproof ring on there? Or is it pretty tight?Frostie,
With my pump turned up and POD's in, would the HTT upgrade like you have be a good addition? I'm sure it would be enough fuel for it........

Jeff
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