Banjo bolt and new gaskets came from Geno's Garage. http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalDa...ID=593&CATID=1

Everything else came from McMaster-Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/

I can scare up a parts list if you want to make an exact copy of "Plumbers Nightmare II".

I think it is very important to have a good shutoff valve on a mechanical fuel (or oil) pressure gauge. The tubing is fragile, and it would suck to be stuck somewhere because your truck has a leak that could have been fixed with a twist of the wrist if a valve was installed.

When the oil pressure line on my old D250 gasser broke one morning, I limped home by stuffing the broken line into the breather grommet. Can't do that with fuel pressure.

 

Could you please be a little more specific on these "restricted" fittings??

What did you use??

Thanks.

 

Where do you get a "snubber"?

 

So this tapped banjo bolt that genos has for the 98.5-02 will fit the 1st gens 12 valve? I'm guessing that all they are doing is drilling and tapping a banjo bolt? Thats where everyone is tapping the system for fuel pressure? I think I have a couple spare bolts laying around so maybe I'll just make my own.

 

The tapped bolt from genos had a head that's nearly 3 times as thick as a factory banjo. I drilled and tapped mine and am afraid to torque it to proper spec because there's very little meat left once it's tapped for 1/8'' NPT. The thicker head of the aftermarket unit fixes that potential issue

I just read through this entire thread...it's was spooky to see a reply from PB, but, on with the bombing, right good pastor?

 

Just for sake of arguement, I an running a cheap zero to 30 pound bourdon tube gauge, mechanical, that I installed a light into. I redrilled and tapped the vented banjo bolt for 1/8-27 npt. I purchased a copper gauge line and fittings from Advance Auto and an 1/8 npt to 1/4 tubing angle needle valve from Truevalue and I am quite pleased with the results. To dampen the gauge I just bearly crack open the valve so the gauge reads but doesn't wiggle. To get the valve to adapt to the 1/8th tubing I turned down the ouside of one end of a 1/8 X 1/8 compression coupling to 0.250 inches and installed it into the outlet of the needle valve.

 

i use hyd hose for fuel lines oil guage ect cost is very little and and have steel baiding inside hose ,can,t rub through or break from viabtion like copper lines.

 

McMaster-Carr, of course.
http://www.mcmaster.com/

Get the one rated for air/gases - the "light oils" one still allows the needle to bounce at idle.

 

I assume you tried the "light oils" one first??

I was just looking at them, before reading your recommendation, and had already decided on the "light oils" one; I guess it's good I hadn't actually made out the order, just yet.

We are talking about the ones that have a tiny filter of some sort inside??(I can't recall exactly how it was worded.)

Thanks.

 

So does a mechanical gauge bounce with an electric fuel pump?

 

Yep. BTDT, still bounced a little too much at idle.
Yes, the sintered stainless ones are what I use.

It could, depending on the type of pump and how it's regulated.

 

I have been looking at this isspro fuel pressure gauge. Genos sells it for 130.00 with tubing and the isolator. I can get the gauge alone for for 30-40 bucks. Is this isolator thing really worth that much?? Or can I just get the snubber from Mcmaster-carr(they are right here and I think i can still get stuff at cost). I like the idea of being able to isolate the system in the event of a leak. All this snubber is is a needle valve right??

 

I'm using a needle valve that allows the gauge to flutter only very slightly at idle when I'm runnnig on the 3/8" supply line. Doesn't flutter at all running off the stock tank. Might throw a snubber in there anyway next time I need a little half hour project to keep me busy and can't find anything better to do. That rarely happens anymore, tho...

 

I was leery of using an electrical gauge, but came across a good deal on a used Westach FP gauge, and bought it. Other than not choosing a permanent location for the sender (currently sip tied to the cruise servo line), I have had zero trouble with it. Not to say mechanical doesnt have its positives, but i am also leery of getting fluids of any type in the cab, esp in cold weather.

Daniel

 

I'm running standard 1/8 OD tubing. How much can you pump through something the size of a needle at 15 psi?