I am finally getting closer, I have finish brakes, mount shocks and fill with fluids. I have Bilsteins to go on as well. in the discussion on the shocks I didn't see anyone talk about the valving. All of the 5100 have differnet options for valving. I will have to look up what my are, I can't remember the p/n right now.

 

I believe he used the one, or one of the ones with the spring clamp(s) on it.

 

It's not pretty but I've put on over 10,000 miles since I started the first spring modification and I kind of didn't care about how it looked until I knew that what I installed was going to stay installed. In a few of the pictures you can see where the old secondary spring pads used to ride. The reason I chose this leaf for this (hopefully) final mod was because its dimensions closely mirrored the light duty spring pack's secondary spring and it already had the holes in it for the nylon pads, quick and easy. Im sure that you can use something a little different as long as you keep it short enough to let the main leaf flex. I reused the steel shims from the original parabolic set up and reinstalled them in the modified hybrid pack, you should be able to see the pack thickness is thinner than the original.

 

Man that is one thick main leaf!

 

You guys that are changing springs back & forth experimenting, what are you doing about the u-bolts? Are you reusing the old ones, buy new or having to have them made?

 

My U bolts were new when I got my springs a few years ago so they have been used and reused throughout this process. I did have to chase the threads on the original studs in the axle when I reduced the thickness of my leaf pack. The one thing that I did have to change was the centering bolt that holds the springs together. The one that came with the parabolic spring pack stripped out after the minivan hybrid, i just went to ACE Hardware and bought hardened bolts with a regular hex head instead of the round allen head because it fits tighter into the axle holes, thus keeping the alignment more accurate.

 

For those reading along.....


U-bolts are designed for a "SINGLE USE".

The metal they're formed with has properties which allow them to stretch at initial use, which is designed to keep tension on the spring pack. If you re-use these spring u-bolts, you risk having them snap, if / when they've reached their maximum stretch, which usually occurs when they're torqued to spec. I personally would never re-use u-bolts on our trucks, especially with the amount of weight sitting above them, as we're not talking about minimal forces of a lightweight garden trailer .

 

Thanks, for your input, I will not argue with your information and I might consider replacing them once I am 100% sure of this alteration. I have never personally experienced a problem reusing u bolts that are in good condition in cars and several tow trucks over the years but again, that is my personal experience, I will not advise anyone one way or the other.

 

I remember reading a thread a while back where someone had used their u-bolts over again, and they snapped. They even posted pictures of it, and asked if it was "normal"...

No idea which thread, but the local spring shop I use warned me of this, and since that's all they do, for me $10 a u-bolt is a cheap insurance plan. I might toy around if I was going through what you were with reference to ride quality, and once finished then change them out for new, but I'd still be a bit nervous in the mean time. The rears? wouldn't think twice. it's the fronts that would bother me, not having new.

 

wow, I never know that about u bolts, been reusing them my whole life?

 

Yeah, the leafs on these springs are both thick like that, no wonder they don't move. I'm glad someone's found a solution to the springs. This thread is linked on the Manufacturer's web site on the page where these springs are sold (that's how I found this thread) I wonder how many people are reading the whole thing.

 

What do ya'll recommend for final torque specs on the axel u-bolts?
I got the parabolic springs from custom suspension as well. In the final process bolting the new gear on.

Also, can someone sell me on a brand/model of shock? I was gonna just grab whatever the local parts store says is supposed to go on my model dodge since I'm not really lifting it, but returning it to stock height.

Any input is much appreciated.

Thank you

 

The 1992 Factory Service Manual recommends you torque the U bolts/ studs to 95 ft lbs. I just used Monroe shocks on mine, they have always worked well for me.

 

I put mine in today. I forget if I ordered the 2" lift or not. Shocks are 1" too short. I have some spare 2nd-gen rear shocks that look like they should work. Skipped the longer shackles till I get the right bolts.

I broke a 1/2" wheel stud, so I upgraded to 9/16". Other side has to wait... ran out of time today.

So the front is now 1/2" higher than the rear. The rear has sagged out main leafs and factory 6" blocks.

 

Just an fyi on u-bolts. Once you get to 5/8" they are grade 8.