Has anyone shot open cell foam into the cab between the cab roof and the metal liner? Did it stop the cab light leaks or cause more corrosion problems. Did it lessen the oilcan noise and did it help lower overall noise in the cab???????

 

If you will take a peak at the recent thread about building a stretched four-door, there are pictures of the cab with the outer layer cut away.

What you see is kinda scary; just bare un-painted/un-treated very rusty metal.

I have no idea what the expanding foam would do as far as corrosion, but I do know that that stuff will push things around.

As weak and thin as the cab roof is, you could end up with a new design.

 

I've thought about this myself but elected to wait until I saw something on the DTR about it.

Didn't want to trash the 88 cab (was mint until I hit some trees...) I'd be swapping onto my 92 this summer with spray foam if it just wound up making the cab roof rust even worse. But I always thought it may perhaps lessen the detrimental effects of humidity and the moisture buildup between the two sheetmetal layers. Might even help insulate the tin-can cab?

I've also thought about venting the space between the cab ceiling and the roof sheetmetal, but I'm not sure about what would happen as far as rust...I'm not a bodyman, just a laborer.

 

Ventilation could not hurt.

Some kind of forced ventilation would even be better.

 

I would think if you used a low-expansion foam there shouldnt be any issues with it deforming the roof.... might want to find a junker vehicle to test it on first tho...

 

I saw a gasser in the junk yard that had been foamed. I'm not sure if it was foamed before or after the rust, but it was solid rust above the windshield. So i'm not sure which did what, did it rust after the foam job, or was the foam to keep the rain out after the rust got to it.

 

I've seen a couple trucks with the roof rot "fixed" with spray foam. Put a visor on it and you'd never know.

 

Now that you guys mentioned it, there are a couple old 1st Gen.s that I see running around my area that have very obvious yellow foam all along the top of the windshield.

Along the same thinking, there is a very rough 2nd Gen. that is often parked beside me when I come out of my usual lunch stop; someone "glue-ed" the mirror glass back into the silly plastic housing with a big gob of spray-foam insulation; either the foam shattered the plastic housing, or it was already busted all over, whatever, foam is puking out from all over ; it sure is pretty.

 

That foam will absorb water and hold it against the metal. If it isn't too badly rusted, or you can clean it up, I'd suggest spray in bed liner. It will seal it and dampen oil canning.

 

I also am trying to figure out some kind of treatment to apply to my cab.Some one suggested I take it to a place that does Rino Lining/or comparable product and see if you could have it sprayed in the cavity between inner and outer panel of cab. I also thought about finding something like Pour15 or similar that is thin flowing and drill access holes on inside of cab and spray it in yourself. You could then find some kind of body plug and paint it same color of cab to seal the access holes. What do you think? This could also act as a sound insulater.

 

Thanks for the responses. It seems the opinions vary just about as wide as my arguements that I have with myself. Rhino guard or herculon sounds good but how would I get it inside and be sure it covers everything. Open cell foam does hold mositure. Has anyone been looking for a closed cell foam that can be applied in this case? Right now there is no rust showing on my cab roof.

 

My 92 had the Ziebart rust treatment at some point in it's life. They drilled holes and put whatever Ziebart treatment is in the cracks and crevises then installed the plastic plugs with the ziebart name on them. What exactly is this Ziebart rust treatment? It didn't work on the rocker panels, they are showing signs of rust. Had a guy tell me it was more of a dealer item type scam they did to increase their profits on new vehicles.

 

You can get bead liner in a rattle can. Maybe snag the top off a WD40 can and use the tube

 

I had bought a Suburban that had Ziebart and that was the worst mess I had had ever dealt with, under the hood it looked like someone followed an oilier where asphalt was being laid, everything was covered in tar including the wiring and the exhaust system, it was shot into the roof cavity and in our hot Southern California sunshine black tar was oozing down from the headliner.

I had to gut out the body and I spent days inside and out with a steam cleaner trying to melt out the tar, I should have just dumped it.

Too bad the bodies are not galvanized and wax dipped like the Volkswagens are, but then they might just last forever.

http://www.ziebartdetailingfairfax.c...rtfairfax.html

Jim

 

I did that on accident.

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