fluidampr
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From: Orange County, California
fluidampr
well i've made the decision to purchase one. i'm noticing a bit more vibration when free revving in neutral and i wouldn't doubt the stock damper is on it's way out and probably has been for a while now. a friend of mine can get me one shipped for over $100 less than what they retail for and that's definitely hard to pass up. any words of advice or precautions when installing one? i've read that some have had to shim the fan clutch for a bit more clearance between the fan blades and the damper. that seemed to be more of an issue with the i/c motors and i know that the fan pulley bracket on i/c motors is a little different than non i/c motors. i wonder if the bracket is the reason for having to shim the fan clutch??
P/N: 960311
http://www.fluidampr.com/CUMMINS.htm
looks like i'll get a sensor relocation bracket but i don't have the sensor
. guess i could hang on to it and find a sensor and sometime in the future wire it to run my autometer tach which uses the pick-up strapped to my alternator.
P/N: 960311
http://www.fluidampr.com/CUMMINS.htm
looks like i'll get a sensor relocation bracket but i don't have the sensor
. guess i could hang on to it and find a sensor and sometime in the future wire it to run my autometer tach which uses the pick-up strapped to my alternator.
If you don't have the crankshaft sensor, then you won't need the bracket. (The bracket is needed for those with the sensor as the Fluidamper is larger in outside diameter compared to the stock/OEM unit thus the sensor won't fit in it's stock location. The bracket relocates the sensor to the far driver's side of the damper). 
Mine bolted right up with no issues though I did have to shim the fan clutch with a 1/8" thick washer, don't, the rear edge of the blades would just kiss the face of the damper.

Mine bolted right up with no issues though I did have to shim the fan clutch with a 1/8" thick washer, don't, the rear edge of the blades would just kiss the face of the damper.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,389
Likes: 114
From: Orange County, California
If you don't have the crankshaft sensor, then you won't need the bracket. (The bracket is needed for those with the sensor as the Fluidamper is larger in outside diameter compared to the stock/OEM unit thus the sensor won't fit in it's stock location. The bracket relocates the sensor to the far driver's side of the damper). 
Mine bolted right up with no issues though I did have to shim the fan clutch with a 1/8" thick washer, don't, the rear edge of the blades would just kiss the face of the damper.

Mine bolted right up with no issues though I did have to shim the fan clutch with a 1/8" thick washer, don't, the rear edge of the blades would just kiss the face of the damper.

as for the crank sensor, though i don't have one, i'm thinking that i may, in the future, find a stock sensor and be able to hook it up to my autometer tach as is. not sure if it would work or not, but RPM is nothing but an AC signal and is directly related to frequency, so hooking up the 2 wires would probably run it just fine. i'll hang on to the kit for that and give it a try sometime.
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it's finally here! and came with the tach sensor relocation bracket and wire harness. when it was ordered it showed an extra charge for it but i selected not to since i don't have a factory tach sensor. no complaints though! 

installation will happen this weekend and i plan to take plenty of pictures for a thorough write up for anyone interested. it is a fairly simple install but i'll include directions straight from the included paperwork. can't wait to feel a difference!!


installation will happen this weekend and i plan to take plenty of pictures for a thorough write up for anyone interested. it is a fairly simple install but i'll include directions straight from the included paperwork. can't wait to feel a difference!!
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,389
Likes: 114
From: Orange County, California
no need to. just gonna pull the shroud, fan clutch (so it can be spaced) and the belt. i don't see the need to remove the radiator. it would only add extra time to the install having to drain it, catch it in a clean container for reuse and then have to fill it back up again.
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