D.Wiggs

I am getting some really bad vibration, so much so that it sets off two speed sensors when I am fairly low in the RPMs in 4th and 5th gear (mainly around 35 MPH). Could this be the exhaust vibrating?? The Fluidampr did not get rid of this and I am really confused as to what could be causing the problem. Any ideas???

UnrulyNFS

I get the same thing, its the vibration from the clutch that causes my lights to set off. Lemme guess, the middle brake light and the abs light?

I just try not to lug the engine as much to avoid it. Of course, i was hoping it was a loose box connection or something.

Jfaulkner

My transmission growls pretty good if you lug the engine. (like in town in a high gear) Didn't notice it until I installed the clutch. It's the same DD you have with the same transmission. But after 26000 miles I got used to it. I hate to hear that the Fluiddampr didn't correct this since I was looking at adding one to quiet things down.

JCLeary

With my dual disc I would never let rpms get below about 1500. The noise from the trans was just too ugly to listen to.

After the Fluidampr, the only gear that really made noise was 5th. Other than that, my truck was as smooth as stock. Idle rattle was reduced by over 50%, and in-gear noise was all but gone unless I was hard on the throttle.

I did, however, discover a problem with my driveshaft after my DD install. Whether or not it was caused by the installer I don't know. I had a bad vibe, decided to replace the u-joints. They were seized and the bearings looked like powdered metal. I still had a vibe and it turned out that either a) the driveshaft dampener had rotated on the driveshaft or b) the driveshaft had been reassembled 180° off.

I sent the shaft out and had the dampener cut off and the shaft re-balanced. All is good now.

So, I guess I'm saying you should check your u-joints. They may not have any play and still be bad. With the power you should be putting down it would not surprise me if you had a failure. The factory joints are cra*. Replace them with some greasable Precision 351's.

abc4yew

For ujoints, Spicer Originals are the ticket...I'm getting rid of the last of my Precisions in a month.

Argo

even my auto will do it at the right rpms under the right load. a nice low grumble that is pretty annoying until it shifts out.

PourinDiesel

You need to find out where the vibration is coming from before blaming the fluidampr.

53 willys

35mph in 5th gear.... sounds like your lugging the engine a little too much to me?

D.Wiggs

Sorry for the delay in reply. Yes, 35mph in 5th is lugging (1500 RPM). It's just when your cruisng downa very long city street with lights, I don't feel like reving the engine.

I hope that something else is wrong or has been put back incorrectly because everyone says that the fluid dampner is supposed to make the truck almost like stock again.

I could deal with just the 5th gear thing if it idled more smoothly but unless I keep the RPMs over 900 with my foot, it's pretty bad.

Yes, the ABS and PARKBRAKE are the two lights that come on!

So you think I should replace the u-joints with Spicer Originals and then have them check the driveshaft?

JCLeary

Another thing that happened to me...

When the guys originally installed my Fluidampr, they did not loctite the bolts. It took a week for two bolts to work their way out, allowing the Fluidampr to rattle around and not be very effective. It actually bent the locating pin and threw the timing off (similar to a Rokktech sensor, but the reverse). It made the truck idle funny and made the clutch rattle more. I only discovered it one day when shutting down and hearing a bolt go PING!

I had them pull out the dampener, replace the bolts, tone ring, and locating pin. The bolts were secured with red loctite. All is good now.

Do a search on TDR and you'll find a thread I started about this with pictures.

And by the way, a direct drive dual disc is always going to be noisy at idle and in gear. This is why I switched back to a single disc. I had an organic DD that was useless for pulling, and I am not all that into drag racing. The benefits of my particular DD did not outweigh the drawbacks.

Eventually when I get some sticks and a modded CP3, I'll drop in another big turbo and a ceramic DD and get to pulling. Until then, I'll enjoy the smoothness of my single disc coupled with a Fluidampr.

You, however, may not have that option with the power-making potential of your truck. I'm just at 550, so all's good with my OFE.

PourinDiesel

Yeah like JCleary says...I would check and make sure that its in there well and good.
I would also torque those damper bolts to about 145-165 newton meters if they are loose.
Mine is torqued to 165nm with no loctite and no trouble so far (and my truck sees some high rpm abuse from time to time)

D.Wiggs

I will tell the techs next week when I am back in town.

Bad new though. The truck just started to idle funny and is puffing some white smoke, but ONLY at idle. The second I press the accelerator at all, the vibration goes away as well as the smoke. What could that be ??

abc4yew

I really don't think the ujoints are bad....even crappy ones take a while to go bad. Is the engine coolant up to operating temps when the white smoke occurs. If not that is a normal thing with temps below 55degrees especially if humidity is high. My truck idles rougher than stock with TST and Smarty plugged in. Do you have Smarty now...if so check for DTC codes. Check the dampener for sure. New DD clutch seems to be the concensus. After having a lot of work done, I don't run the stereo as I'm so nervous I'll miss a sound of something going wrong. Keep an eye on the vibration.....IF it runs rough below 900 get your high idle adjust enabled so that you can keep the idle over 1000rpm....better for the truck anyway, ks

D.Wiggs

No SMart yet; probably in a week or so. The white smoke is with the temperature low and the coolant pegged at the bottom. What was odd was the weird vibration caused for the first time. I will definately get the DD checked this upcoming week. I had the high-idle enabled but it still does not work. What else do I need to do since I have a 6-speed. The tech could not figre it out since the StarScan showed it being enabled once he selected it.

abc4yew

If the high idle feature is enabled then when the truck is in P you can use the cruise control to raise the engine idle upwards. Using a DRB III you can set the idle to be higher all the time if you so desire. These trucks give white smoke when cold and idling below 1100rpms. The fuel doesn't vaporize that well when the block is cold. The truck has less than full power and mileage is poor until the engine temps are up to normal for 5 to 10minutes. ks