The raditor support isn't going to mover around to much by itself. It is attached to the body threw the fenders. Now if the cab mounting brackets are rusted out bad the whole body can slide around. This problem you can't see without pulling the bottom cab mount bushing off. Here is a pic of one of my cab brackets after I removed the cab.

 

The radiator is an origional replacement same dimensions as my buddies truck that I measured up yesterday.

 

I don't know if that is my problem Philip. The truck is a rust free texas truck but I guess I gotta start checking somewhere. I will pull a mount off and see what I find tomorrow.

 

Something is moving to get the fan into the raditor. There are almost 30 bolts holding the fenders/ inner wheel wells to that support. It can't move around very much at all without bending other metal parts. If the cab and fenders are moving as one piece. You will not notice it.

The truck being from TX doesn't mean it might not have that mount problem. Those mounts hold mud and water in.

 

I am going to check the cab mounts tonight. I moved the rad support foward a half an inch already but my powerstroke intercooler is hitting my custom bumper. i know I only moved the bottom of the support but it did help.

 

How much room in between your cab and box?

 

If you measure the back of the cab to the top front rail of the bed once the body lines become square to each other it measures 1 5/8".

 

I took all the body mounts off tonight and there is no rust at all the mounts on the frame are perfect. I left the mounts loose and used a jack to push the cab foward as much as I could. I was only able to move it 1/4". That just came from the little bit of slop in the captured nuts in the floor that the body mount bolts thread into. I opened the hood to see how much of that 1/4" that I gained showed up between the radiator support and the timing cover. I was able to gain the whole 1/4" that I moved the cab. Then I noticed that the fan was stuck on the bottom edge of the radiator again and the fan clutch had blown up all over the engine compartment. I guess the fan got stuck on the bottom edge of the radiator again and then blew up the fan clutch when the fan could not turn. I don't really know how long the fan was stuck but I did take a 2 hour trip on saturday. For now I have removed the fan and I will just drive it the 2 miles back and forth to work. I think my problem is that the radiator support is bent. I can see where the grille is screwed to the rad support is about half an inch from where the original holes are. I noticed that after I noticed that where the hood latch catches on the hood is no where near center. Seems like the center part of the radiator support is bent toward the engine so I am going to pull it back out as soon as I find a clamp to use on it for pulling.

 

Here is what the cab mount brackets look like

 

This is where the hood latch is contacting the striker on the hood. You can see where it is hitting and it is not centered and I think it should be.

 

The first pic is the passenger side motor mount and the second pic is sideways but that is the driver side mount. They are in correctly right? Some how the first pic is upside down sorry for the bad pics I rotated them and they just go back for some reason.

 

Thank you all for helping me sort out this problem. This truck is starting to get on my nerves. Seems what ever I do something else breaks.

 

Hate to be a poo-poo, but that's a lot of the reason why I give up on some of these ideas I have.
It's always one thing after another, after another, after another, after another, after another, after another......

It's a never ending fight to keep an old vehicle, with a finIte supply of parts, on the road.

Mark.

 

Well personally I'd rather be the one fighting the old vehicle...then paying some $100+ and hour to throw parts at my new vehicle...when the computer can't even diagnose it.

 

If you keep things in the perspective of the "mysteryman", and left the truck alone..... with no "power increase" modifications, then some of our problems that occur wouldn't happen...

Broken motor mounts
Twisted input shafts
FSS rubber destruction..

Etc.

He's been quoted many times as saying they "purposely detuned these motors to ensure the other parts in the drivetrain would last.".

I say.... What did he know ? He was just an engineer who helped design and build the trucks....

I love the way my truck runs with my "moderate" power increases, and if I had the money....... I'd go all out.