Well tonight I got a chance to get under the truck and try and find where the leak was coming from. I cleaned off all of the oil and then started the engine and then I crawled back under with a bright flashlight.

I looked between the engine and trans and there was nothing so I waited for a minuet and then it came trickling out of the edge of the access cover so I removed the 3 bolts and dropper it to have a closer look.

There is a small trickle of oil dropping directly down the center of the bell housing so I will assume it is coming from the rear seal.
What do you think?

Also what is the size of the bolts that hold the transmission onto the engine? 14mm or 9/16?
I thought the transmission would have been metric since the engine is.

After I repair it I am going to have to get under the truck with my steam cleaner and clean off the mess.

Jim

 

Dont do that.... it will keep teh frame from rusting!!

I beleive the bell housing bolts are 14mm...
edit---disregard that.... thats the getrag to bellhousing bolts I am thinking of.

 

Sounds like the rear main. All the bolts on the engine and trans are metric. It's the complete opposite of working on an '80's GM car.

 

That is what I would have thought, but I tried a 14mm and it will not fit unless you gave it a smack and it would be tight 15mm is way too loose but the 9/16" fits it perfectly.
I will check the bolt heads for any telltale markings.
Real strange.

Jim

 

Go with Cummins. I went to the Dealer about the vacum pump seal and they pulled out a Cummins bag and said it was $85 I went to Cummins and got it for $8.75. It was the same part# and bag and the dealer had it marked up almost 1000% 100% would have only been $17.50. Read the instructions you are supose to install it dry it has a film on it that sticks to the crank when you start it so that it makes a good seal. Its easy to take the flywheel housig off and then the plate that the seal is in. then you can remove and install the new seal on the bench not under the truck then just put a little silicone on the plate ad put it back on. I have done it many times and now drips yet. You dont have to undo the pan just the 4 bolts from the pan to the plate.

 

here is what you will see when you get it all apart. the Alumm plate that holds the seal comes off with 4 bolts from the pan and 6 to the block. You dont have to drop the pan at all. when you put it back just juse a little sealer and put it all back. this pick is when we did DennyT's truck and it has been doing great for a ling time now. Its not s hard as some make it. You can also see the cam plug. Its a lot easyer to install the seal on the table.

 

That homemade 4" exhaust looks familiar . Ill never install a rear main under the truck. A few extra minutes will save you a ton of trouble.

 

Thats the 2nd truck it was under and looks good. I tought you might be on here.

 

Sorry that your truck developed a leak Jim . I'm even more sorry for the terrible temperature you will be suffering thru while fixing it ! Around here it's been about 20* F around here with 35-40 mile per hour winds and about a foot of snow.I hope you don't sweat to hard ! Seriously good luck fixing it . Looking forward to a great report as usual.

 

Thanks for the picture; now it looks pretty simple to do, I am just not looking forward to dropping the transmission because my truck is so low.

I checked my local Dodge Dealer for the part.

#5015705AA Seal kit includes install tool. @ $76.00

And then I called
Cummins Cal Pacific:

#4098342 Seal kit includes install tool. @ $41.14
#3938159 Cover gasket @ $6.42 ea.
#3926126 Repair kit, includes Seal, repair sleeve and install tool @ $79.46

The first thing they asked was for the engine serial number.
So I will have to drive to Montebello to get my parts.

The guy at Dodge checked the computer and said this kit fits from 1989 to 2008 year engines.

Jim

 

Absolute handiest, most used, best thing, I ever built is a home-made pair of stout ramps, built entirely out of scrap odds and ends I already had.

I used two identical wheels (not critical that they match, they just did) and welded angle-iron ladders/ramps to the edge of each rim, such that you climb the ramp and end up with the truck tire on top of the wheel.

I welded a short piece of 2-1/2" pipe across each wheel as a STOP, so I know I have went as far as I can.

I use these almost daily and honestly don't know how I ever lived without them.

I got the original idea from one of those "FARM SHOW' newspapers that are full of home-grown ideas.

I am soon going to make a second taller pair by stacking/welding two wheels, one atop the other, for those occassions when I need more room underneath.

My home-made ramps are WAY STOUTER than anything I could buy.

 

I used to be a mechanic for a roofing company and we had a bunch of Chevy LUV's and anytime I had to work under them I would use the forklift and lift them up and set them between to flatbed semi trailers.

Like having a pit on top of the ground.


Quote:
I chose to go to Cummins.

On my '92, the part # as per my Cummins receipt was 4089342 and it cost me $41.14 plus tax. That is the seal if you DON'T need the sleeve and it did come with the seal installation tool. No other special tools were needed.

Part #3926126 is the seal and sleeve kit and it does require an installation tool to press the sleeve onto the crank and that tool is not included. The cost on that seal/sleeve kit was $79.46 at Cummins.

There also is a rear cover gasket that you will need if you choose to remove the rear cover (not recommended unless it's the cause of the leak). It it part # 3938159 and cost $6.42 at Cummins. Be aware that if you remove the rear cover, you will have to reseal the oil pan in that area, thus the recommendation not to remove it.

Hope that this helps.
__________________
Jay


Hey Jay, our prices match, must be a good thing.

By any chance does Cummins Cal Pacific have a big room full of old used engines and injection pumps and you can pay them $20.00 admission and what ever you need you can have?

Oh I guess that was Pick-a-Part.

What do they do with their old parts?

I guess I will try to go the Cummins in a few days and spend some money.

Mapquest shows it to be 14 miles and should take me 22 minuets to get there.

Is there anything else I should get while I am there besides maybe some valve cover gaskets and maybe mud flaps?
And idea how much they cost?

I have a feeling I am not going to be able to walk out with just the parts I needed.
Jim

 

Since I don't run an automatic, I'm probably not the best source for this info but my recollection is that the 2nd gen flexplate is stouter than the first gen.

Other things to look at while you're under there would include u-joints, starter contacts (upgrade to Larry B/Foster Truck oversize contacts) and brushes, transmission seals (shouldn't need them because of the recent rebuild) and tranny mount. I'm sure there's more but that's off the top of my head.

 

Cummins is where I get all of my Fleetguard oil and fuel filters. Compare their prices to what you use currently.

 

Good luck Jim! I'm feelin your pain it was 50* here last night I had to turn the heat on all night!