ok, i'd really like to do a stack, and or stacks. with the extra long cab i will be able to put the large 4" straight through muffler on to try to keep them quiet (to an extent) here is my issue, i don't want to give up the ability to put 8ft lumber in the bed of my truck and close the tailgate. here's what i need to achieve, just don't know how make it happen.

i need to get to the outside of the frame rail with the exhaust so that i can come up through the bed in front of the wheel well in the bed. i've had two ideas of how.... tell me what you think

1. to simply take it under the frame rail (i think it would look ugly though) or get it outside the rail by coming out of the turbo angled outside the frame rail and trim the inner fender so that it runs straght down outside of the passenger frame rail.

2. and i just had this idea today. the gap from the top of the frame rail to the bottom of the bed is approx 4 inches (haven't measured, just eyed it) if that's the case, what if i ran 4 inch to that point and put a shot 90 up, then a 4inch to dual 3 inch T... then run it to both sides under the bed and come up in front of the wheel well? area of a 4 inch pipe is 12.556 area of two 3 inch pipes comes to 14.137.... soooo will it work?

 

consider option #2 and add a small (1 or 2 inch) body lift?

 

I'm going to do sideliners on mine: put a T on the end of the downpipe, run two exhausts straight out sideways, and then elbow them back right on the inside of the body.

 

chris - let me run out and actually measure... with my custom made cab, i am worrried that lifting it may take the already questionable stability.

begle1 - i'm going to be lifting the truck before long and worry that it will look goofy with the pipe coming below the frame rail.... also the front drive shaft may pose a problem for me where you are talking about

 

the gap is actually about 4.75 inches... could i sqeeze a 4 inch pipe through that? what if i put a flex tube up flow so that i could weld it with fixed exhaust hangers? thanks in advance

 

I'm thinking plan no. 2 would work. Don't be afraid to think "Outside The Box". Right there where you describe the pipe squeezing between the bed and frame.


I'm thinking . . . .

Place the 4" pipe on a solid, flat surface in a press.
Using some stock approximately the size of the frame top,
press a flat spot into the pipe that would ride over the frame when installed.
Nobody said the pipe had to be round.

 

Had nearly same thought for mine, But what i was thinking was a box that would sit atop the frame rails, About 4"x6", that would be as wide as i needed it to be to have a stack on each side going up infront of the wheel wells, I think that you are on the right track, But whet side will i toss the ladders up on the full length ladder rack? I really dont want to expose a ladder to the soot, and the high temps, Mabey i just need a second first gen diesel!! ! ! !
Peter.

 

true BC...look at the Nextel cup cars, they all use oval tubing for ground clearnce reasons.

 

I flattened an exhaust pipe one time to clear a frame member. After the flattening the truck sounded like a hoot owl most of the time. It sounded terrible. I don't know if it was cause of the squashed pipe or not, but I removed it.

Dean

 

I guess running that pipe under the frame rail might look bad on a lifted truck, but you can't even see it on mine. Mine is under the frame up into the bed so i might have lost a little bed but not as much as others i have seen.

 

haloman... got any pics?

 

not of the underneath, but in my gallery are the ones of the stack and its mount

 

The frame steps up right behind the front seats, right? So, if you went outide the frame just behind the frame step up, you could go outside with your stacks, and still keep it mostly under the bed and body, without compromising frame integrity. Just a thought.

Oh, one more thought- dont go down to a 3" even if it is dual 3s; keep it 4in til you come through the bed, then go at least 5". 3" &4" stacks are just ridiculous.

Daniel