DJ

I'm planning on getting an exhaust brake for my 93 ctd, I only carry a 2000 lb camper so I don't think I need a valve spring upgrade. I'm just wondering if anyone has put one on without replacing the springs, if so what brand and how did it work out. Lastly does anyone know where I would look for a used one and/or who has the best prices.<br>Thanks<br>Dave

Bushy

While I do not use an exhaust brake I suggest you seriously consider going to the 60lb springs (on the exhaust valves) if you intend to use one.<br>The point of the spring upgrade is to assure proper/consistent valve closure while the E-Brake is on.<br>You can develope some respectable pressure on the exhaust side of the head which could slow valve closure or even cause them to re-open. At least that's my understanding of it...<br><br>bob.

AlK

Dave,<br>I have no personal experience with E-Brakes, but from what I have read in the various forums, there is a difference in braking power between the various manufacturers at any given rpm. My understanding is that the Pac-brake gives you better braking at the lower rpm. This might be more beneficial to the first gen trucks because we run at lower rpms than the later trucks. Just my 2 cents (Canadian) eh!<br>--<br>Al

Bob Beauchaine

I am running a BD exhaust brake on my '93 with the 60lb springs. The BD can be set up to run with 30 lb springs but it will reduce the brakes effectivness. I always had front end rotor warp at about 20,000 after a brake job until I switched to the BD brake. Not only that but my brakes are lasting longer - as in much longer. It's not that hard to install the 60 lb springs and a good time to adjust the valves.<br>Bob

ZONE5AB

The U.S. Gear brake doesn't require a spring change.

Monty

I would go ahead and buy the 60lb springs. If anything, it is cheap insurance. If the US Gear Brake still mounts in the exhaust pipe and not on the exhaust housing; this may be why it doesnt require larger springs.