Erratic Temp Gauge/coolant temps.
#16
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I think a mechanical gauge is probably the best solution in case the system is functioning properly and the factory one is the problem.
BGilbert - what does your mechanical gauge read? Does it stay steady and your factory gauge bounce as I describe? A little more feedback would be appreciated.
Also, what is considered "overheating" in our truck? I realize I have a 180* thermostat, but how high can you safely sustain while towing?
BGilbert - what does your mechanical gauge read? Does it stay steady and your factory gauge bounce as I describe? A little more feedback would be appreciated.
Also, what is considered "overheating" in our truck? I realize I have a 180* thermostat, but how high can you safely sustain while towing?
I would not want the water temp over 215* for very long. For towing and to be sure, a mechanical temp gauge is the only way to go. The factory gauges are for the most part worthless.
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#18
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My gauge stuck at the first 1/4 when i first got it . However the head gasket leaked at the front passenger side which i am told is a-typical. Then i attempted to silver seal it.... Which worked but immediately after that began the 3/4 temp to quickly dropping to 1/4 and back. What bothers nee most is my newly complacent attitude over the temp. I haul a 3k # tool box ( intended for a dually) on the daily so im constantly hauling an s10 uphill and so far it always cools back just to heat right back up
Used bleeder screw to release trapped air, one theory i have is when head leaked the water jackets consistently had air could it not in contact with coolant sensor thus not giving accurate reading... Because now it's not leaking , or overheating but it runs all the way up and down.... I'm also considering the contacts on the cluster might be intermittent ( it swoops up and down aweful fast... Like fuel gauge at start up type fast)
Any thoughts?
Used bleeder screw to release trapped air, one theory i have is when head leaked the water jackets consistently had air could it not in contact with coolant sensor thus not giving accurate reading... Because now it's not leaking , or overheating but it runs all the way up and down.... I'm also considering the contacts on the cluster might be intermittent ( it swoops up and down aweful fast... Like fuel gauge at start up type fast)
Any thoughts?
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