engine swap
engine swap
Hey yall, have one major question.....I am currently looking at swapping a 2nd gen motor into the ole '92.....what is involved in this swap?....as in....trouble areas...things i need to know about this swap. How well does the wiring hook up? Approximate costs? More questions soon. redwake
Actually, it's generally accepted that buying an entire donor p-pump engine is cheaper than doing the swap on an original VE engine. The timing case has to be changed, which requires removal of the cam..not a small project in and of itself. Injector lines and injection pump brackets are a must. The p-pump is over 3 times the weight of the VE, so the brackets can't be skipped. Injectors are needed too....it might actually be cheaper to convert a VE engine, but it would be close...and the time invested VS a one day engine swap...mmmm, now I want one
ebay, here I come
ebay, here I come
welcome to the best of both worlds
, sweet old truck and the power of the p-pump. i have done this swap myself, i put a 95 motor in my 90 diesel, which is more difficult since i never had an intercooler to begin with but you wont have to worry about that. first of all my swap was fairly easy, i actually tore the entire front end of my truck off, you don't have to though. the motor will bolt in just fine, use the 2nd gen motor flex plate, they are stronger. use all your same wireing. which means you'll do some wire cutting and reattaching. since the new motor has different plug ends. i actually took all the 2nd gen wiring off. i ran the fuel shut off solenoid to a switch in the cab with a momentary switch. there are three wires coming off the 2nd gen solenoid, white, red and black. the red wire i wired up to the power wire that ran the 1st gen motor fuel solenoid (its blue with a stripe) the white wire was run into the cab to my switch and then from the switch to a power terminal i installed with a 30amp fuse. the black wire is ground. make sure you use a momentary switch to activate the solenoid other wise it will burn the solenoid up. let me explain. the solenoid is 12 volts, but works off relays on the 2nd gen wireing, but we don't have these relays. so to start the truck you turn the key all the way to the on position, sending 12v to the solenoid, then hit the momentary switch, this will pull the solenoid up but the key being in the on position is what holds the solenoid up. the switch only pulls the solenoid up. wow thats alot of typing, hope that makes sense, but im sure you'll have more future questions so send me a pm for more info. i also hot rodded the motor a little so i can send a little knowledge on that to you as well good luck and have fun
jason
, sweet old truck and the power of the p-pump. i have done this swap myself, i put a 95 motor in my 90 diesel, which is more difficult since i never had an intercooler to begin with but you wont have to worry about that. first of all my swap was fairly easy, i actually tore the entire front end of my truck off, you don't have to though. the motor will bolt in just fine, use the 2nd gen motor flex plate, they are stronger. use all your same wireing. which means you'll do some wire cutting and reattaching. since the new motor has different plug ends. i actually took all the 2nd gen wiring off. i ran the fuel shut off solenoid to a switch in the cab with a momentary switch. there are three wires coming off the 2nd gen solenoid, white, red and black. the red wire i wired up to the power wire that ran the 1st gen motor fuel solenoid (its blue with a stripe) the white wire was run into the cab to my switch and then from the switch to a power terminal i installed with a 30amp fuse. the black wire is ground. make sure you use a momentary switch to activate the solenoid other wise it will burn the solenoid up. let me explain. the solenoid is 12 volts, but works off relays on the 2nd gen wireing, but we don't have these relays. so to start the truck you turn the key all the way to the on position, sending 12v to the solenoid, then hit the momentary switch, this will pull the solenoid up but the key being in the on position is what holds the solenoid up. the switch only pulls the solenoid up. wow thats alot of typing, hope that makes sense, but im sure you'll have more future questions so send me a pm for more info. i also hot rodded the motor a little so i can send a little knowledge on that to you as well good luck and have funjason
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