Electrical Problem - No Start
OK here's my symptoms. For a while now, the cruise has worked intermittently and the buzzer when the key is in the ignition an door open doesn't work immediately.
Recently a new problem has developed. Went out to go home from work, turn the key and nothing happened. No windows, no radio, no buzzer, and no clunk from the relays. Jiggled this and that, came back in turned the key and everything started working like normal. Now, several days later, a similar thing happened. Went out and got in the truck (buzzer was working) and when I turned the key the buzzer, interior lights, and W-T-S light slowly fade away. I jiggle a few wires under the dash and nothing happens. Jiggle the key and with the key in the off-lock position I get a slight buzzer and faint interior lights. As soon as the key is moved the contact goes away.
After searching and reading I'm thinking this is a faulty ignition switch. Has anyone else experienced similar phenomenon? Could the clock spring be the culprit in all of this?
Thanks
Recently a new problem has developed. Went out to go home from work, turn the key and nothing happened. No windows, no radio, no buzzer, and no clunk from the relays. Jiggled this and that, came back in turned the key and everything started working like normal. Now, several days later, a similar thing happened. Went out and got in the truck (buzzer was working) and when I turned the key the buzzer, interior lights, and W-T-S light slowly fade away. I jiggle a few wires under the dash and nothing happens. Jiggle the key and with the key in the off-lock position I get a slight buzzer and faint interior lights. As soon as the key is moved the contact goes away.
After searching and reading I'm thinking this is a faulty ignition switch. Has anyone else experienced similar phenomenon? Could the clock spring be the culprit in all of this?
Thanks
That's what I was thinking. Have one coming overnight from NAPA. Hopefully I can get the TORX insert to fit down those little bitty holes in the plastic housing. Is the procedure to change the ignition switch the same as replacing a lock cylinder?
I'm really hoping it's not the cotton picking fuseable links. Least it's not the clock spring.
I'm really hoping it's not the cotton picking fuseable links. Least it's not the clock spring.
Most chain stores stock those switches, they fit a lot of Mopar applications.
You will likely need a torx screwdriver to get the column cladding off, a bit driver is probably too bulky. You will also need security torx bits for the ignition switch screws.
The procedure is the same, except you pull a few screws and unplug the switch.
You will likely need a torx screwdriver to get the column cladding off, a bit driver is probably too bulky. You will also need security torx bits for the ignition switch screws.
The procedure is the same, except you pull a few screws and unplug the switch.
Well I got to work on the truck this weekend and figured out the problem. the issue wasn't the ignition switch at all (which is good because the part that NAPA ordered for me wasn't even close to being the right one.)
Got to scratching my head on the problem when I had a moment of clarity. I decided to pull the battery and alternator and take them to get tested since they were easy to remove. Took them to O'Reilly's and wouldn't ya know...bad battery and alternator. Apparently the alternator died and took the battery with it. Bought a reman alternator with a lifetime warranty and a nice Optima red top under the hood. Now I barely have to turn the key for the truck to fire off.
Got to scratching my head on the problem when I had a moment of clarity. I decided to pull the battery and alternator and take them to get tested since they were easy to remove. Took them to O'Reilly's and wouldn't ya know...bad battery and alternator. Apparently the alternator died and took the battery with it. Bought a reman alternator with a lifetime warranty and a nice Optima red top under the hood. Now I barely have to turn the key for the truck to fire off.
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