effects of where you enlarge the exhaust
Now that you mention it, I have an old Chevy gas-burner with stacks.
My 14 year old son still carrys the brand on his arm from touching one of the stacks when he was two years old.
On my diesels, I can drive hard for thousands of miles and still hold my bare hand on the stack for minutes without getting burnt.
Why do diesels have to monitor EGT for fear of melting something and gassers never seem to worry??
It would seem to me that they would be in much more danger of burning through a piston.
My 14 year old son still carrys the brand on his arm from touching one of the stacks when he was two years old.
On my diesels, I can drive hard for thousands of miles and still hold my bare hand on the stack for minutes without getting burnt.
Why do diesels have to monitor EGT for fear of melting something and gassers never seem to worry??
It would seem to me that they would be in much more danger of burning through a piston.
Originally Posted by BearKiller
Now that you mention it, I have an old Chevy gas-burner with stacks.
My 14 year old son still carrys the brand on his arm from touching one of the stacks when he was two years old.
On my diesels, I can drive hard for thousands of miles and still hold my bare hand on the stack for minutes without getting burnt.
Why do diesels have to monitor EGT for fear of melting something and gassers never seem to worry??
It would seem to me that they would be in much more danger of burning through a piston.
My 14 year old son still carrys the brand on his arm from touching one of the stacks when he was two years old.
On my diesels, I can drive hard for thousands of miles and still hold my bare hand on the stack for minutes without getting burnt.
Why do diesels have to monitor EGT for fear of melting something and gassers never seem to worry??
It would seem to me that they would be in much more danger of burning through a piston.
Edwin
Originally Posted by BearKiller
Why do diesels have to monitor EGT for fear of melting something and gassers never seem to worry??
It would seem to me that they would be in much more danger of burning through a piston.
It would seem to me that they would be in much more danger of burning through a piston.
.Diesel burns how and fast, and most of it is consumed during the power stroke.
one simple add-on question...(I hope)...
I keep seeing that the factory downpipe is 3"...
I'm getting ready to get some adapters so I can run my stacks...
I see adapters for 3" ID and 3" OD...when everybody says the OEM downpipe is 3", is that ID or OD?
Greg
I keep seeing that the factory downpipe is 3"...
I'm getting ready to get some adapters so I can run my stacks...
I see adapters for 3" ID and 3" OD...when everybody says the OEM downpipe is 3", is that ID or OD?
Greg
Originally Posted by BearKiller
Mine is 3" OD.
Pipe is measured ID and tubing is measured OD.
Pipe is measured ID and tubing is measured OD.
http://store.airflo.com/exhaust-tubing.html
it's called Exhaust Tubing, but all the flex stuff is measured ID...
I always hear the term "exhaust pipe", but I'm sure that's just a common term...
I was a little confused because you can buy:
3" ID to 4" OD
3" OD to 4" ID
3" ID to 4" ID
3" OD to 4" OD
all four combos of 3"/4" ID/OD...
I guess I'll actually measure mine, and then check to see if my stacks are 5" ID or OD (they were a "toss in" with the deal when I bought it last weekend, so I'm not sure)...then see what kind of 4" I can find...
Thanks.
Greg
Originally Posted by G1625S
Hey Jeremy, nice stack! Wonder where the twin to that one is? 

You're pourin it on alot harder than mine does. Maybe once I get some pocket change, I'll change that.
the ID measurement means that it's flared to go over straight pipe, and the OD measurement means that it'll go into a flared end (ID). Your downpipe should be OD. I had that problem when I put mine together, too. I got it all ordered correctly from airflo, except for 1 adapter. Had to wait another week before I got to put it all on.
One other thing... have a sawzall and 6" blades and an angle grinder w/ cutoff wheels handy for getting that old pipe cut off. Those old slip joints are pretty much froze together, but if you cut slots along the length of the joint (only through the outer pipe!), then take a chisel or junk screw driver and hammer on it (kinda like peeling a banana) they usually come apart. PB Blaster might come in handy, too. (PB is awesome penetrating oil)
When cutting the hole in the bed for the stack, the sawzall will come in handy when cutting through the bed braces if you run into any. I had a 4 1/2" hole saw that tried to rip my arm off, thanks to that big Milwaukee drill I borrowed from dad!
After I went through the bed floor, I pried that circle out and went w/ the sawzall.
One other thing... have a sawzall and 6" blades and an angle grinder w/ cutoff wheels handy for getting that old pipe cut off. Those old slip joints are pretty much froze together, but if you cut slots along the length of the joint (only through the outer pipe!), then take a chisel or junk screw driver and hammer on it (kinda like peeling a banana) they usually come apart. PB Blaster might come in handy, too. (PB is awesome penetrating oil)
When cutting the hole in the bed for the stack, the sawzall will come in handy when cutting through the bed braces if you run into any. I had a 4 1/2" hole saw that tried to rip my arm off, thanks to that big Milwaukee drill I borrowed from dad!
After I went through the bed floor, I pried that circle out and went w/ the sawzall.
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