hello wanted to say thank a poc for help on the price of the truck , found out the owner was a tinker and had the motor messed up, friend of mine went to look at it ohhh welll any was does any one know where i can get a convertion kit to go from drum to disk breaks on rear? or a parts list have to change the rear breaks and i hate drums, thanks for your help also the drums hate me so if i could do away with them.

 

I read somethin bout chevy disk brake conversion, but im not fer sure.
Id be intressed in this too. Not much stopping power in these truck, YES IM KEEPING MY TRUCK. hope i dont reget it.

 

http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm

 

those prices really are not as bad as I would have thought.

I still think for now though that I am just going to go with the Chevy 1 ton wheel cylinders.

 

If you do a search on here, I think that you will find some people who are dis-satisfied with the disc conversions . . . I think that if you turn your drums (or replace if needed) go to the 3" brake shoes and IMHO just the Dodge 350 cylinders instead of the GM cylinders, you will be happy. If you go too big on the cylinders, you really do a number on brake balance when you are empty. If you are running a full utility body all of the time or something it makes sense, but if you run empty a lot, I wouldn't want to rely on the ABS

If you just want to spend money, you could swap on later model hubs with outboard drums -- saves pulling the axle shafts & hubs each time you do a brake job

 

I would love to have rear discs also but I have one pretty big problem with the aftermarket conversions especially on a daily driven truck. I would like to know how much just a rotor or just a set of brake pads are from them and how soon you could get them if you needed. If you really want disc brakes personally I would get a rear axle from a newer truck that has factory discs. That way you can get discs/calipers/pads from any parts store all over the country!!

I have also heard that with these aftermarket conversions that after they are installed people find that there isn't the kind of peddle pressure that there was before, like they bleed off and you have to give them an extra pump to get good feel. Kindof like when your drums get out of adjustment I guess.

Most people are happy with the 3" wide pads and 1-ton wheel cylinders just like Alec said.

 

Not sure which one you need http://www.tsmmfg.com/5500_or_6000.htm
I've had good luck with TSM rear disc conversions, the trucks I've used them on definately stopped better after the conversion.

 

wow thats probably the best prices I've ever seen for the aftermarket conversions!

 

wow sounds like ill be better to just grin and baer the drum pain both drum realy need replaced and i think ill go for that instead of disk never though i would have to get parts from the convertion company, so thank you all for your help ill keep what i have should i use 1ton dodge or gm cylender also is that axle a dana 60 or bigger?

 

My 1 ton stops good with 1 ton parts as long as I keep up with the adjustment. I run empty most of the time so the GM cylinders don't appeal to me.

I don't know about the GM axle, but the Dodge is a Dana 70.

 

MIne is a dana 60 ( 2wd)

 

Correct me if I'm wrong , with a rear disc conversion you would need to swap to a disc brake master cylinder

 

Can anybody help me find a rear disc brake caliper bracket for doing the conversion. I can't seem to find them on ebay at all. I have all other parts needed just looking for the brackets

 

You shouldn't need to replace the master cylinder, but you will have to replace the proportioning valve. This is what keeps your fluid pressure correct to the rear rotors to prevent lock up when empty. I make my own brackets and kits for GM 14 bolts and use the proportioning valve from early 80's rear disc Cadillacs. If you wish to keep e-brake abilities we just use the cadillac rear calipers too. The only bad thing is you have to get a cable fabbed for that application. It works great on my suburban, but I opted to to e-brake it. That thing stops hard even with 35" tires. A buddy of mine, smashmetal on here, has the same kit. We came up with the idea together and he runs 40" tires on his 1 ton Blazer and it stops very well. Give me a while and I'll get a bracket set put together for you guys. All liability will be in your hands though. I am tired of the rear pushing my truck around too. I mash on the binders right now and the rear wheels keep spinning, especially on ice. I'll load some pics of the GM rear housing I have done already so you guys can see the finished product.
EDIT PICS
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../543799_61.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../543799_60.jpg

 

That is not a conversion, you are buying the brackets to hold the calipers.
You will have to purchase everything else from the parts store.

I have always threatened to change over to disks, but when it came down to it I guess I am too tight.