Howdy me again.I swapped out all my u joints on the 2 piece drive shaft.I would like to do the carrier bearing also.

How does it come off of there? do you have to press it off? looks like theres a flange built into the drive line that wont allow it to slide off the shaft...what am I missing here.

93 d350 2wd drw

Thanks appreciate the help.

 

Unless I'm mistaken, it slides off the long way. Opposite direction of the flange. I thought the new one had to be pressed on as well. But the guy showed me how he installs the new one. He had a pipe bigger than the drive shaft, small enough to rest on the carrier bearing. The pipe was longer than the driveshaft portion. He slammed the pipe on the ground, driving the bearing over the shaft. Took about four good hits and it was seated. He just drove it on that way till it stopped.

He said the rock guard thing was not needed either as the bearings are sealed. It just gets in the way.

So, pressed is a relative term I guess. Knowing what I know now, I would just find a way to drive the old one off. Or even cut it off since it's sacrificial. Hammer, strategic hits. Maybe a tool. Drive it off.

Then find a way to drive the new one on evenly. That's what I'd do if I had to do it over.

 

Sometimes these things are really on there. I pulled mine off with a bearing puller, (a big one) and it took everything I had with a cheater bar to get it to let go. It wasn't seized, just tight. It does slide right off. Mine had 2 halves covering the bearing itself, plus a sleeve on the back. There were 5 removable pieces of the bearing itself starting from the back- retainer sleeve, rear bearing cover, bearing, front bearing cover, rock shield. The rubber insulator slid over the bearing/bearing cover assembly. BTW, you can buy just the rubber insulator from NAPA. Installation is a snap. I put the driveshaft in the freezer and the bearing in the over at 175 and it slid right on, no hammering.

 

Pulled mine right off and pushed right on with the DS in the vise.

 

So does that flange on the shaft have to be cut off first ? Then pull the carrier bearing towards the splined end ? The new bearing I picked up doesn't even fit over the splines . The new bearing I picked up is a federal mogul # 015-0020-8 . Was I sold the wrong part ?

 

Measure the inside diameter. If its 1.55 inches, thats the correct one. If its 1.375 it will not fit a diesel truck

 

You probably got what I got. One for a gasser.

Ask for a 1 ton diesel carrier bearing and you will be good to go. That is what I did.

 

So I got the flange and bearing off by using a concrete chisel and a 5 pound sledge hammer . Sometimes you just have to use a little force .
@ jerseybud , yeah I got the 1.375
@ dieselJon thanks for the tip about the 1 ton bearing .
Now I just have to go get the right bearing .

 

So do these need to be pressed on?

 

Nope. I put a light bit of oil on the shaft and pushed it on.

 

I got the right bearing this morning .
First I cleaned the shaft with steel wool , then I whacked it on with a piece of 1.5 inch ABS pipe and a hammer .
My truck runs real smooth now .
No more shake at 60 mph.

 

could you help with what parts store and part# because napa in ga. has only 1.375 inside dia.. Thanks for any help 1990 d350 5.9 cummings 1 ton..

 

Try Anchor #6038... it was $11 at Rockauto. Napa can probably cross it over to Timken, SKF, etc.

The last one I ordered I got wrong too.... found out the hard way and had to buy one locally in a bit of a panic - $50

To take the old bearing off I cut it apart with a zip wheel. Then zip most of the way through the inner race, and fracture it with a cold chisel. Falls right off. I used a pipe and hammer to install the new one. (pipe sized to inner race of course).

 

Napa part #phb 88508 id=1.57