Ok I'll dig this one up again...
I got myself into the brake saga when I warped a front rotors a year ago. The slide stopped sliding and that's all takes. So I did all new everything up front, and the front stops great. Actually I lock the front if I have to quickly panic stop at highway speed. I don't like that but whatever.
4 months ago I found a rear drum was cracked. So... New drums, shoes, spring kits. I couldn't get the old wheel cylinders off so I didnt go to the wider 3" shoe I just put it all back stock. I adjusted it all properly and have driven probably 2K miles and just developed a really bad chirping at low speed with my foot off the brake pedal. As soon as I touch the pedal it quiets down.
Even with all new parts I never felt as though the rear brakes did much, I could lock the E brake up hard, shift to drive and drive around the parking lot like nothing.
Any advise appreciated, I plan on taking the drums off again this weekend to inspect.

 

Sticky wheel cylinder.

What do you mean you couldn't get the old cylinders off? Break off the bolts and replace them. If the line is rusted, break it off and replace it.

You are trying to renew things, aren't you?

If the drums are good (likely) put in new oversized wheel cylinders, 3 inch shoes, and all new hardware (spring kit, adjusters if bad or worn). Double check the e-brake cables and replace them also if needed.

 

I never thought about breaking it...
I used a line wrench and nothing would break the single bolt loose that holds the brake line on the wheel cylinder. I considered cutting the line but the splinter block on the top of he axle tube is just as seized and I couldn't budge the lines off that either.

I like your suggestion, just don't know how far to go with the cutting and breaking stuff!!

 

Before you break it, try putting a good pair of vice grips on 2 sides of the flare fitting. I will sometimes put a cheater pipe on the grips. I have gotten a few really tight or bunged up brake lines off. As far as the brakes themselves, mine didn't work right until I dumped the drums for disks, smooth stopping since...Mark

 

Ok I've been doing my research in the stickey and I need to know if I should use 1" or 1 1/8" wheel cylinders. The argument for 1" in the stickey males sense, but what are folks actually using?

 

wow read this thing from start to finish. anyway the only thing i don't like is that idiot rwal or what ever its call. came close to rear ending someone twice because of that thing. and yes i was trying to make the stop light both time. not bad for 12 years of driving it. i would replace that valve with one off of my dads old 3/4 ton gmc it has an arm that connects the bottom of the box to the rear end and when not much load not much brake when heavy loads lots of brake in the rear. 87 gmc 4x4 diesel with a stick and a diesel. just make sure you make the next owner of your pu sign a release and you make them aware of the changes in writing that were done to the pu.

 

to each his own . i have a at least a half dozen "as is" signed forms on file from altered rigs i have owned , i have something to loose if someone does not then don't worry about it. i have been to several gm, ford and dodge schools over the years and wrenched as a fleet mech. for 15 years . i am supposed to know better than to alter components on a vehicle. i even have a signed form for any large farm equipment i sell.

 

does any else notice a trend in this thread?. that all i have to say.

 

Still wondering about 1" vs 1 1/8" wheel cylinders!

I know Brandon did this upgrade when Santa brought him everything he needed for Christmas. How's that working out for ya?

 

It made quite the huge difference over my completely oil soaked rear brakes that weren't working, my pedal is like right at the top now. Like set your E-brake and push the brake pedal, that's what mine feels like all the time now. It used to go half to the floor and I'd have to pump it.

Now on the 1st push it STOPS and i don't feel the truck nose dive to the front anymore.....

 

Shouldn't you be in class at 12:08??
Joking around B...
Thanks for the quick response, did you use 1" or 1 1/8"?

 

Probably a wheel cyl stuck if its just one wheel and the other works right. Or there not adjusted right.

 

changing the size of your W/C bore iis like this. smaller bore w/c will travel farther off of less fluid flow and increase the leverage that your master has over it. So if people are saying the smaller bore has no neg effects over the drivability (touchy brakes), then its a win win!

 

I am using the 1 inch bore with 3 inch pads, the thing stops like your throwing out an anchor, compaired to what it did before.

Dar

 

Really,I may have to switch to 3/4 ton w/c

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