I've been shopping every source I can find for the correct evaporator core for my 92 D250. Everything I've found so far is incorrect. The dealer part is discontinued and there are no stocking dealers.

I work for a luxury car dealership selling parts to the body shop. I've tried all my work connections as well as the restoration shops I've dealt with over the years.
The closest thing I've found is Polar Bear out of Florida. They offered to have one made but it could be a lengthy and costly experience. They can't quote me a price unless I ship them my core. However, the person on the phone gave me the impression that it might leave my credit card smoking.

 

I bought one from NAPA years ago for my 89 and it matched up fine. I can't remember if it had the angle like the one you pictured in a previous post. From NAPA's website, it shows it without the angle. You're other option if you can't source the correct evaporator core, would be buy a heater box from an earlier truck. (Readily available from a junkyard or classifieds) One that uses the other style evaporator core.

 

The best people to deal with in Florida is Cold Air Distributors. If they don't have it, they'll make it and they're the best price around.

 

why not try finding a good used one at a junk(salvage) yard?

 

I live in a nearly rust free environment. There is no rust on my truck. There is rust on my evaporator core.
If I am able to find another one it will probably be in the same shape mine is. I also have no way of testing it to see if it will hold pressure.

I thought about getting an older style A/C box but why did they change? Will it be as efficient as the one I have?

My evaporator core was holding pressure. After going through all the trouble to get the box out (replacing the heater core) I'd like to put it back in with all new stuff.

 

rock auto?

 

From that other picture you posted, the ones Rockauto had listed looked awful similar, although I didn't take a magnifying glass and look super close...

 

i bet a good radiator shop can pressure test it. Why would you want an apparently difficult to find replacement for an apparently good part? In the absence of physical damage or rust, why not just replace the seals and run it? My opinion as always...Mark

 

My core is rusted. I don't kow how much longer it will hold pressure and I'd rather not have to do another dashectomy.

The Rock Auto cores are not the same. They will not fit. The core will drop into place. The angle on the inlet/outlet will put the expansion valve into the blower motor. It will also leave a large hole in the evaporator case that will draw air from the engine compartment. I won't even entertain that idea.

 

Most a/c suppliers can custom make about any type of fitting or adapter. Is there a way that you could cobble together an adapter?...Mark

 

Here's The original core. Notice the core is at an angle but the expansion valve will be square with the case. Also note the plate and seal that close the opening on the box.



This is the Rock Auto style core for the earlier trucks. It doesn't quite fit the other end of the A/C box properly because the tubes contact the hole in the box. It will not be held securely without butchering the box. Also note the angle of the outlet compared to the box. It will push the A/C lines into the blower motor. Then, you're stuck with a hole in the A/C box that is no longer sealed by the evaporator. The blower motor will simply blow back into the engine compartment.

 

From the photo, it looks like it would be easy for a good ac shop or even a good radiator shop to cut the manifold off and put the correct bend in the one from rockauto. I had a new heater core fabbed up by a radiator shop, for my 62 Fairlane, about 15 years ago and it is still going stong. Just a suggestion...Mark

 

I'd agree with 368...have a shop mod it a tad; the mods would not be drastic and a little sheet metal and A/C foam tape should seal the gaps, or get some cork tape at the local HVAC supply house. At least the new core is copper with a brass flange; this should outlast the truck and possibly even YOU! Aluminum corrodes more readily and is harder to solder when it leaks. The new core looks viable, it just needs a little refinement.