According to the FSM, the information about a transmission is located on the side.

So here is the Part # / Build date / Serial # of my trans in my 92

I'd like to confirm which series trans I have. I keep hearing 518, 46rh, Etc.
and I would really like to be sure of what I have in there.

Can anyone decode the Part # here ?





Thanks

 

You have the A518 (AKA: 46RH).

It's essentially a 3-speed 727 with an overdrive section added.

A couple of years after your and my transmissions came out, Chrysler decided to streamline the naming of the transmissions. With that, they renamed the A518 to 46RH.

4 (Four speed), 6 (Rated @ 600ft/lbs of torque), R (Rear wheel drive), H (Hydraulic control).

Hope this helps.

 

Yea your trans is definely an A518 aka 46RH

Tranny guys usually go by the 46RH, but obviosly tell him it's a diesel non lockup 46RH. Because even 1500 gas trucks in the 90's used 46RH's.

 

Thanks Guys !


Just wondering what that serial number was all about (part number, I should say)


Most appreciated, as today I adjusted the bands, installed a deep sump pan with extension on it, and filled er up with new fluid.

Just wanted to make sure I was adjusting the bands correctly with two turns vs 4 on the rear band adjuster.

What a PITA doing those adjusters. Front one required 4 hands... and luckily I was born with one big extra long hand

The rear one was a pita as well, as the wrenches I had didn't fit. I tried grinding them down, but they still didn't fit. Removal was easy as I used a thinwall socket. Tightening was another story, as I had difficulty fitting the wrench on the lockdown nut to set it. Eventually, I got it snug, and then torqued it to spec while holding the other end of the bolt with a pair of needlenose. It worked, and didn't change the positioning of the center bolt.. as I checked it 3 times to make sure. Next time, I'm going to cut out the side of a thin wall socket (deep) to be able to access the nut stud with a wrench while torquing the hold down nut.



New pan doesn't leak, but 3 of the bolts were stripped out, as when I removed them, they pulled the threads.

Temporarily, I put in longer "self cutting" bolts, but eventually, when the trans gets rebuilt, it's going to require some heilcoils.


T.

 

Could use some input here..

Truck runs great, and the trans felt fine until today.....


Snow plowing = NG for transmissions, I know that, but at least you might have an idea of what is going bad.


Trans shifts through all 4 gears like it always has. What's different now is that it's hardly producing any temperature at all. I drove the truck, plowing snow from 3:00 am to 4:30 this afternoon. The trans temp never rose above 125* F. The problem now is that I can feel "slipping" as the truck's responsiveness does not match the engine RPM's.

When a pump goes bad, does that make the trans slip ? Is this a sign of something else ?

The fluid is "higher" than it was previously, as it goes up above the full mark where it was before the use during the storm. It doesn't smell burned, but it also doesn't smell like it did before the storm.

Truck still moves around, but it definitely is different with responsiveness.



Can anyone recommend a really good transmission rebuilder in the NJ area ?

Someone who isn't afraid of building the trans right ???
or

would you recommend just swapping out a performance tranny and converter ?


I don't want to do the work myself. At nearly 50 years old, my days of lying on my back, swapping out transmissions is long gone.....


Thanks for any suggestions....... except for the ones that say "stop plowing snow".....

 

All these Problems are new since you made the adjustments?

Hows Nemo treating you??

 

The problem started today during snow plowing. The feeling of non responsiveness to the pedal is what started this inquiry. I made those adjustments back in October 2011


We got anywhere from 8-11.5 " of snow here. No power loss. I feel bad for the folks up in New England, as they're really getting socked......


Anyone ever use one of these big transmission chains ? AAMCO, or Lee Myles ????

Not wanting to do that route, but I also don't want to have to go to Kentucky to Thoroughbred diesel either. I'd like to find a shop that deals with performance upgrades, vs the stock R&R. Really don't want to have to go through this again anytime soon.

 

Whats wrong with Kentucky? Just kidding... hope you get it figured out.

Didn't notice that the OP was older. You have a tranny cooler?

 

Yes,

it has the stock cooler up at the radiator, and i have the air tube cooled deep pan as well. Maybe it's running too cool. ??


http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm

Seems like a good place to start, No ????

 

Whats the ambient temp there now?

You have a rad shroud?

 

Mid 30's F.

Yes.

The truck tends to run hotter when I'm driving for a while, as the plow blocks the rad if the blade is up too high. Too low, and you're scraping a corner, as I have to keep the blade angled due to width restrictions here. As soon as I slow down, or I'm back to plowing or stopped, the temp returns to normal (I'm speaking about engine temp here)

125* F too low for a tranny to function properly ?

 

Mine mimmics the oil temp. Stays around 200*. When towing it'll go up to 225* easy and ocassionally approach 250* in the hills if I don't watch it. Granted I don't have a big peice of steel up front blocking things though. In cold weather with no load it may stay at 150 for a long long time.

 

First series of numbers is the part number, which is best described here as a reman.
http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p...5014729AB.html

Second set is the build date in the 10000 day calendar Chrysler uses. In reality, it should read 11253, but it still decodes to a build date of Tuesday, May 19, 1992
http://maxwedge.com/articles/10k.php

Third set is the sequence number, meaning they made quite a few that run

EDIT: That part number didn't show in the Mopar reman catalog, but 05014729AB did on page 182
http://www.moparpartsworldwide.com/moparreman.pdf

EDIT #2; Be 100% sure your TV cable is adjusted properly at the IP linkage- use the FSM. Mine migrates periodically and has to be adjusted fairly often

 

Agreed. TV cable mis-adjusted can make it shift pretty sloppy, especially into 3rd.

Under the hood, max the throttle, then with your other hand see how much throw is left in the TV cable. Should be very little, like 1/8th inch. Should be some slack, though, not jammed to the stop in the transmission.

 

I don't know about those transmission shops, but I will NEVER take anything to BG&S. They've messed up the valve body (may not have even done anything with it or the torque converter) in the boss' 95 twice, and the 4 speed auto in his dad's F-150 came back 2 quarts low on fluid. I drove it a few days a few weeks ago and thought "it's acting like mine when it's low on fluid". Whattayaknow, it was.

Should say three times in the 95, the first time they rebuilt it, they took it right back in because you'd lose OD, then it would just come back in. They found the bad wire in the temp circuit, brought it back, and OD was already back out of it, they had to tear it right back down again.

And I've only been working here 2 years and 4 months.