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Dead In The Water

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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 08:57 PM
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From: Banning, CA
Dead In The Water

Last night the truck went completely dead. The battery is completely charged and it will try and roll over but it won't fire. I have fuel pressure and the starter is good. Any ideas?
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 10:10 PM
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From: Montucky
You said "fuel pressure"..is that at the lift pump or injectors? If you crack an injector and don't get a spray it could be the FSS is not working and stopping fuel at that point--which is where it enters the IP. The FSS can be tested by applying voltage directly from the battery with a test wire. (check the two wire connections on the FSS for continuity and general connection while you're there) and seeing if the solenoid pops (clicking noise).
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 10:14 PM
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I cracked the #2 injector open and rolled it over. Fuel came out of said injector. I tested the FSS with my voltmeter and it read 3.2 volts with the key on.
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 08:43 AM
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From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by younggun95
I cracked the #2 injector open and rolled it over. Fuel came out of said injector. I tested the FSS with my voltmeter and it read 3.2 volts with the key on.
If you want help, follow directions. To start with there should be about 12v at the FSS with key on. diesel.....'s instructions will help you isolate the fault.
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 12:45 PM
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From: Montucky
Originally Posted by younggun95
I cracked the #2 injector open and rolled it over. Fuel came out of said injector. I tested the FSS with my voltmeter and it read 3.2 volts with the key on.
Great! You've now determined that it is getting fuel past the FSS and thru the IP, so I'd now try cracking the rest of the injectors and seeing if you can get a cough. If it still doesn't start then you've eliminated IP, FSS, fuel pump (going on the your initial comment about having fuel pressure), so it could be another issue: timing, etc. Have you done ANY work on this rig prior to the mystery "dead in the water"?
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 02:15 PM
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From: Isanti, MN
Hey Diesel, shouldn't there be 12 v on the FSS. He said he measured 3.2? Is it possible it's just leaking a little instead of opening enough to start the engine?

Why would timing change radically without dismembering/reassembling something major?
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 08:48 PM
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From: Montucky
Originally Posted by j_martin
Hey Diesel, shouldn't there be 12 v on the FSS. He said he measured 3.2? Is it possible it's just leaking a little instead of opening enough to start the engine?

Why would timing change radically without dismembering/reassembling something major?
Agreed on both accounts. I didn't see the indicated voltage just his indication of fuel at injector. But I know it's helped me to use your method of "has anything else been changed recently". We don't know any more history other than the old IWJDA story (I was just driving along)
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 09:20 PM
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Maybe he can fill out his signature with the stats on his truck. Makes it way easier for us give advice if we know what you have, and have done.
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Old Jun 6, 2015 | 12:26 AM
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The fuel spray that you are getting at the injectors might not be pure diesel. If the water separator in the fuel
filter has filled up with water, that would cause the truck to literally be dead in the "Water".
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Old Jun 12, 2015 | 01:06 AM
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The truck is back up and running again. Put a new battery and starter in and that solved the problem. The only on going problem is that the speedometer went out earlier this year and so did the overdrive. The truck does have a new VSS and the transmission has an clean bill of health. Any ideas?
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Old Jun 12, 2015 | 02:44 AM
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Younggun, I own a 1993 D350 LE and the ECM burnt out. I sent it off to ASI and A-1 Cardon for rebuild and it was not able to be rebuilt. I read the threads concerning this issue in the sticky and have converted most of the essential fuctions that the ECM controlled. The over drive (4th gear) was the easiest. The over drive solinoid is located on the drive side of the transmission down close the the tail cone. (Looking from under neath the truck). The solinod has a blue and orange wire on the quick connect that goes to the solinoid. Splice a 12 or 14 guage wire to the orange wire and route it up into the engine compartment and thread it through the fire wall to the inside of the cab. Cut the insulation off the end of the wire and take the truck for a drive. After you get up to speed in 3rd gear, hold the wire against your ignition key or other known ground inside the cab. Your transmission will shift into over drive. I have bought the rocker switch to wire this up but have not got the chance to do it yet. Anyway the orange wire that you spliced into is the grouund that would normally be made up by the ECM to engauge the over drive solinoid. Once you wire the switch in, you will be able to engage over drive manually. I have read that the VSS also has a ground wire that is controlled by the ECM. This ground just needs to be permanently grounded under the truck and the speedo will work. Your cruise control will never work again. I am using my Tom Tom to know how fast I am going until I can wire the VSS ground up.
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Old Jun 12, 2015 | 08:54 AM
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That seems to be the next step. Been looking to do that but I've been busy with school and work
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 08:01 PM
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Well I wired up the switch and no avail. I looked at it again and I have 3 wires on the solenoid and not two like everyone else. Does that help any?
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 09:58 PM
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The only three wire plug coming off the drivers side of the transmission that I am aware of is the Speed sensor. The OD solinoid is the vertical plug sitting at the top drivers side of the transmission. It is the fartherest one back toward the (Nose Cone) output shaft. Pull the outer (Wire harness) cover off of the wires where they come down and go into the larger harness and you will see an orange wire and blue wire. Spice into the orange wire and use it to engage the OD.
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 10:20 PM
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Well looks like I screwed that one up
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