Hi all Ill give you a quick rundown on my situation in July 06 I put new rotor, stds bearings etc. Got it all at Napa they presses the races and studs all I had to do was pack the outer bearing and reinstall. did that no problem until now the inner wheeel bearing on the passengerside blew apart so I pulled the driversside to make sure it was ok called and it was Napa they said they were warranted for a year went to Napa the guy was so rude treated me like I was trying to get something for noting said that the bearing if bad would never fall apart like that that I did something wrong or there was somthing wrong with the truck. I asked what could I have done wrong so as to not do it again if I evan did something wrong he replied Im not a mechanic would not evan talk to me just got the new bearings threw them on the counter mind you I never raised my voice or disrespected him at all I was just looking for a solution and was prepaired to pay for new parts This realy upset me what did I do to be treated like that I mean he gave me the bearings and all But I dont know why he would treat me like that anyway to my question

The inner bearing that broke, the inner part of the bearing is froze to the spindel I tried to us a puller but cant get a bite it just pops off tried a pipe wrench to try to twist it no luck any sugestions would be greatly appriciated
thanks Ray

 

Try warming it with a propane torch and see if you can tap it off
or get your hand grinder out and carefully grind on opposite sides
till it falls off

 

I do the same thing as Jim5870 but with an acetylene torch. Usually after you burn the first side the race will slide off. If you are careful and go slow you will not hurt the spindle. The high carbon steel in the bearing race will do a lot of popping and snapping while you are cutting it.

I've burned off a lot of bearings this way and have yet to damage a spindle or shaft. In fact now, if they don't pull right off I go straight for the torch.

Good day,
JP.

 

thanks guys I finaly got it unfotunatly I dont have a acetylene torch but I used a grinder
Do you think this happned due to over tightening or could it have been the bearing or other when I did it I followed the repair manual and have done lots of bearings
Thanks again

 

Hard to say why it would be stuck. As long as the spindle looks OK I wouldn't worry.

JP.

 

Because he's a jerk. I hate people like that. Working on old trucks isn't rocket science.

As to why it burnt up: either it wasn't properly lubed (what kind of grease did you use?) or it was set too tight.

Tighten the bearings down snug while spinning the rotor (this makes sure they are centered and seated), then back the nut off until you can feel a little in - and - out play. BY HAND tighten the nut until you can no longer feel any in - and - out play. If the hole in the spindle doesn't line up with the retainer, tighten enough to let the cotter pin slip in.

 

It was valveoline wheel bearing red stuff. What if the bearing was not tight enough could it do the same? Thanks for the info Its all back together take it out in the morn to test drive

 

PERFECT answer and recommendations, Dave! exactly what I would have said...not that it means I would know what I was doing , but that is exactly how I have done all my bearings. No failures to date(but don't let my bearings hear that!). Ditto on the parts counter guy, maybe he had a really really bad day. Still no excuse from customer POV...unusual for most NAPA's I've been to, but guess they can't all be perfect either. Good luck with the fix, and glad to hear it didn't cause an accident(or worse!).

 

Nothing wrong with that stuff, just making sure you weren't using chassis grease. Loose could have caused it, but guys rarely make that mistake. If the guy pressing in the races didn't get them set all the way in, then the truck would have "set" them out on the road and the bearings would be way too loose. If you're pretty sure you didn't set them up tight, then the NAPA boys are most likely to blame.

 

LOL about like my story,replaced heater core on a girls truck for the third time the parts guy at Auto zone asked me if id considered buying a new truck since the cores were failing.

 

Lots of bearings are coming from overseas (China) and they aren't necessarily very good quality. The parts guy sounds like an edit to me...

 

I don't let anybody assemble anything for me UNLESS they are willing to put things right....... so I do everything myself. Things are not always better but I always know where to find the jerk who screwed things up.

I share your pain as my inners got me for a while. They are such a treat to work on

 

just make sure you get the bearing grease pushed into the bearing . either by hand , put a blob of grease in palm and push grease into the edge of bearing at the ends of the roller bearings . or use the cone and greasegun method. i agree with the descriptions on how tight. the guy behind the counter is a chump probably changed a lite bulb once and thinks he is someone. would you value his opionion on a girlfriend or buying a house? not. so don't think he knows anything about this either.

 

I got it all together But on the new bearing after all installed there is slite play hardly noticeable when you pull the top and bottom of the tire its the same way on the opposite side that I had already done back in july So I tried to tighten alittle more to see if the play would go away and then backed off thinking maybe the bearings were not set all of the way but it did not change This is how I tightend them
1.put all together snuged the nut aprox 20ftlbs
2.backed off 1/4 turn
3.hand tightened
4.put forgot name but metal thinggy
5. then new cotter pin

Could it be the wrong bearings or is that typ of play normal In the service manual it says there should be no noticable play any suggestions greatly appriciated Thaks Ray

 

The FSM says ~

- Tighten the nut to 30 to 40 ft/lbs while rotating the rotor/hub assembly.

- Stop rotating and loosen the nut to completely release the bearing preload torque.

- Tighten the nut finger tight, install lock-nut and cotter pin.

The Wheel bearing adjustment (above) should have 0.001" to 0.003" end play.




Hope this helps.