cummins rough idle and white/blue smoke on cold start
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From: Pertnear Nashville, TN
Not sure if any of you guys run any additive to your fuel. In my '97 Lesabre at 168K I had the intake off to fix an oil leak. I have tons of paper work on it and all the maintenance. No mention of new injectors. It had 150K on it when I bought it. I run Marvel Mystery oil in it every fill up. I use it to lube the fuel pump. The injectors looked like new.
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From: Commerce, OK
I run Power Service white bottle in mine. I add a few ounces every fill up. The low sulfur fuel lacks lubrication so the PS makes the VE and injectors last longer. It boosts the cetane also.
Edwin
Edwin
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From: Pertnear Nashville, TN
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My motor will chug and smoke like an old steam locomotive when the temps get down around freezing if I fire it up without the use of the grid heater and KSB.
On an 89 motor the KSB is already in advance function since it is a wax motor, so you need a 12V ignition source to the KSB at all times when running. The Non-IC motors had a heater control relay (small 3" square black box mounted on the firewall around the master cylinder, inner fender) that controls when the grid heaters will cycle. The 89 motors have it set from the factory to turn on the Wait to Start light until -15*C or so, warmer then that the WTS light does not seem to come on. But the grid heaters should still function passively...small boosts to the grid heater element when warming up...you should see the volt meter dropping slightly and at irregular intervals to know they are functioning.
On an 89 motor the KSB is already in advance function since it is a wax motor, so you need a 12V ignition source to the KSB at all times when running. The Non-IC motors had a heater control relay (small 3" square black box mounted on the firewall around the master cylinder, inner fender) that controls when the grid heaters will cycle. The 89 motors have it set from the factory to turn on the Wait to Start light until -15*C or so, warmer then that the WTS light does not seem to come on. But the grid heaters should still function passively...small boosts to the grid heater element when warming up...you should see the volt meter dropping slightly and at irregular intervals to know they are functioning.
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From: BC
AFAIK, wax motor is a reference to how the internals of the early KSB work.
5 hole injectors (i.e 5x.012) may run a little cleaner than stock 4 holers (4x.013) and can fuel a tad more. IMHO, the HX35 becomes the choke point with injectors any larger than those. I can already run my HX35 plenty hot... and I don't have a long fuel screw or fancy lift pump.
gov spring > fuel pin
5 hole injectors (i.e 5x.012) may run a little cleaner than stock 4 holers (4x.013) and can fuel a tad more. IMHO, the HX35 becomes the choke point with injectors any larger than those. I can already run my HX35 plenty hot... and I don't have a long fuel screw or fancy lift pump.
gov spring > fuel pin
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From: NE Wa
As u2slow said the early non-inner cooled ve pumps required constant power to the ksb as they used a wax pellet to advance the timing for cold starts, as the wax melts it allows the timing to return to stock. The the inner cooled models have a temp sensor in the intake that supply's power to the ksb to advance the timing when the temp is I believe around 35 degrees and once it warms up the power to the ksb is shut off allowing the timing to return to stock
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From: The Dalles, OR.
IMHO if the truck has over 200K on the original injectors I'd replace with new factory Bosch injectors. They provide plenty of fuel when new for a stock turbo, it'll run clean without the smoke and haze and provide an immediate boost in performance. Next thing you should do is adjust the valve lash. This is something a lot of people fail to do. Should be done every 30K miles for peak performance. Then BHAF / better intake system and throw away the crappy stock exhaust and get a Diamond Eye 4" exhaust. Those 4 things along will make a HUGE improvement in performance and efficiency. Then and only then should you start messing with injection pump timing/ fueling/ turbos/ etc.
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IMHO if the truck has over 200K on the original injectors I'd replace with new factory Bosch injectors. They provide plenty of fuel when new for a stock turbo, it'll run clean without the smoke and haze and provide an immediate boost in performance. Next thing you should do is adjust the valve lash. This is something a lot of people fail to do. Should be done every 30K miles for peak performance. Then BHAF / better intake system and throw away the crappy stock exhaust and get a Diamond Eye 4" exhaust. Those 4 things along will make a HUGE improvement in performance and efficiency. Then and only then should you start messing with injection pump timing/ fueling/ turbos/ etc.
i absolutely agree. Get it running and drive it. If it’s and auto. Start thinking about a trans if you go past what I quoted. Ask me how I know. Lol.
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i have been driving it pretty regularly and put in the power service white bottle of diesel fuel supplement every fill up and she has been running much better. way easier to start, even at the 15 degrees we had the other night and doesnt run rough anymore at idle. im not sure it has ever had any sort of cleaner through the system! according to the dash, she only has about 52,000 miles on her, but it could have rolled over once.
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i have been driving it pretty regularly and put in the power service white bottle of diesel fuel supplement every fill up and she has been running much better. way easier to start, even at the 15 degrees we had the other night and doesnt run rough anymore at idle. im not sure it has ever had any sort of cleaner through the system! according to the dash, she only has about 52,000 miles on her, but it could have rolled over once.
or twice Lol
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